Built-in stresses

[Parlo]

Yes, but you’re losing close to 30mm of travel. Take the arbor out, cut that 30mm off of the end and replace: you won’t pop out the drill chuck arbor and you’ll be able to drill deeper holes without sliding the tail stock.

I'm not familiar with this tailstock but how can you release the chuck if the arbor is cut 30mm shorter?
Losing 30mm seems like a lot but it is quite easy to move the tailstock to remove chips. The depth of drilling a hole depends on the length of the drill.

 

[pontiac428]

I'm not familiar with this tailstock but how can you release the chuck if the arbor is cut 30mm shorter?

Yeah, I'm not sure about this one either.

 

[atunguyd]

I'm not familiar with this tailstock but how can you release the chuck if the arbor is cut 30mm shorter?
.

Simple. If you do cut the arbor too short to remove it then drill and tap a hole in the back of it (where you cut off). Now put a grub screw into said hole and you have an adjustable end piece to set it exactly where you want the arbor to release.


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[ChazzC]

I'm not familiar with this tailstock but how can you release the chuck if the arbor is cut 30mm shorter?
Losing 30mm seems like a lot but it is quite easy to move the tailstock to remove chips. The depth of drilling a hole depends on the length of the drill.

Many smaller lathes’ tailstocks will eject a standard arbor well before the quill is fully retracted, as is the case with the OP’s lathe. The solution is to use an arbor which is shorter or create a shorter arbor by cutting the end off: insert the arbor, retract the quill until the arbor releases, note the reading on the quill’s scale and cut this much off of the arbor.

 

[kmanuele]

I'm not familiar with this tailstock but how can you release the chuck if the arbor is cut 30mm shorter?
Losing 30mm seems like a lot but it is quite easy to move the tailstock to remove chips. The depth of drilling a hole depends on the length of the drill.

Many smaller lathes’ tailstocks will eject a standard arbor well before the quill is fully retracted, as is the case with the OP’s lathe. The solution is to use an arbor which is shorter or create a shorter arbor by cutting the end off: insert the arbor, retract the quill until the arbor releases, note the reading on the quill’s scale and cut this much off of the arbor.

Yup.

As the chuck/quill is retracted, the arbor makes contact with the end of the lead screw in the quill, ejecting the arbor. Shortening the arbor allows the quill to retract further before making contact, providing more chuck travel.

Still debating doing this, as that arbor is quite hard. Probably a job for the angle grinder. The collar does what I want for now.

Thanks for all the comments.

K

 

[Parlo]

Many smaller lathes’ tailstocks will eject a standard arbor well before the quill is fully retracted, as is the case with the OP’s lathe. The solution is to use an arbor which is shorter or create a shorter arbor by cutting the end off: insert the arbor, retract the quill until the arbor releases, note the reading on the quill’s scale and cut this much off of the arbor.

Thanks for clearing that up, I did not expect the tailstock scale to have 30mm or so that can never be used. I always thought that the spindle ejected once past zero, so zero could actually be used as a start point.

 

[WobblyHand]

Thanks for clearing that up, I did not expect the tailstock scale to have 30mm or so that can never be used. I always thought that the spindle ejected once past zero, so zero could actually be used as a start point.

The tailstock designer used a non standard length taper probably to reduce overall length of the tailstock. I have this issue with my Grizzly G0602/G0752Z. I have to severely grind down the taper length to get the full adjustment range of the quill. The designer did this so they could claim a n x m lathe using less material. Classic cost cutting exercise. Users are directed to buy supplies from manufacturer, or have to alter their own. Designers may even have been rewarded for this.

 

[kmanuele]

Thanks for clearing that up, I did not expect the tailstock scale to have 30mm or so that can never be used. I always thought that the spindle ejected once past zero, so zero could actually be used as a start point.

My drill chuck is the worst case because it has that tang at the end of the arbor. The dead/live centers do not have the tang, but do not reject at zero either. Not a problem though.

 

[stupoty]

Simple. If you do cut the arbor too short to remove it then drill and tap a hole in the back of it (where you cut off). Now put a grub screw into said hole and you have an adjustable end piece to set it exactly where you want the arbor to release.


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I use my drill chuck with a draw bar hole on the lathe and have a short piece of studding in it adjusted so I only lose about 1/4 inch of travel but can still eject it.

Stu