BROWN & SHARPE UNIVERSAL DIVIDING HEAD

4gsr said:
I don't recall mine having the set screw or the thumb screw. Seem like there was a pin driven into the piece the slotted piece went into. That thumb screw is not original. Mine had the index handle go thru a rectangular slot in the shaft in your bottom picture, instead of having an offset piece that it fits into as yours has. I think someone has been monkeying with yours.
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The pin you see in the worm shaft is the original, that is how they are supposed to look.
 
BROCKWOOD said:
OldMachinist, in his thread shows a very similar arrangement to mine for the thumbscrews. All the same - mine has been monkeyed with. I intend to undo all the monkey business. I've shown the index crank handle assembly on top of the unit itself to point out another difference. Instead of the neat little popup oilers, I have 2 grease zerts, 1 of which is in a different location. Mine must be a newer versionView attachment 234965 View attachment 234966 .
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My dividing head is the same as the one pictured, it has the zerk fittings also.
 
benmychree said:
The pin you see in the worm shaft is the original, that is how they are supposed to look.
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How do you know that is the way it is?

Brown and Sharpe made several different versions of this dividing head in it's day and some of them vary just a little and some of them are obviously different.
The one I had was much older than these in the picture and mine had a pin driven in and not a modified special set screw.

Let's be careful with our words here. And nothing wrong with chiming in and letting us know how yours is alike or different from others.

Ken
 
4gsr said:
How do you know that is the way it is?

Brown and Sharpe made several different versions of this dividing head in it's day and some of them vary just a little and some of them are obviously different.
The one I had was much older than these in the picture and mine had a pin driven in and not a modified special set screw.

Let's be careful with our words here. And nothing wrong with chiming in and letting us know how yours is alike or different from others.

Ken
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I have had several of these over the years, and they were all alike in that respect; you need to be able to unscrew the driving pin to be able to remove and change the index plates. To be sure there are differences between older and newer dividing heads; the earliest had a tapered spindle and iron bearings in the body, and there were several different methods and mechanisms to disengage the worm from the worm wheel, but I think the dividing plate and sector arm and the pin that locks the plate from the back are the same in all that I have ever seen.
 
Okay, different driving pin. Yeah, you're right on that one. I'm still stuck on the little pin that holds the spring loaded piece that engages the index plate for simple indexing.

Hey, Never mind, I'm wrong, I see the hole in one of the pictures above that the pin goes in.
 
On mine, the pin fits into the collar that fits in the sleeve that carries the back index pin; when you push the index pin against the spring and rotate the collar with the pin engaging in the keyway in the pin carrier, and rotate the collar into the circumfrential groove in the pin carrier, it locks the pin out of engagement with the back of the index disc so that it may freely rotate when doing spiral cutting or differential indexing. It also makes it easier to change index plates by not having the pressure against the plate tending to cock it and make it difficult to start the screws in the plate.
 
BLOW UP ART.jpg
BENMYCHREE wrote, "On mine, the pin fits into the collar (42) that fits in the sleeve (40) that carries the back index pin (43); when you push the index pin against the spring and rotate the collar with the pin engaging in the keyway in the pin carrier, and rotate the collar into the circumferential groove in the pin carrier, it locks the pin out of engagement with the back of the index disc so that it may freely rotate when doing spiral cutting or differential indexing. It also makes it easier to change index plates by not having the pressure against the plate tending to cock it and make it difficult to start the screws in the plate."

Guys, the drawing doesn't fit all versions, isn't complete & does not offer up an official name for any of the parts (such as would be seen on a parts list). I am thrilled that this open discussion has begun. But, I realize that in introducing part 2 before finishing part 1, much confusion crept in. I apologize. Before deconstructing all this back to part 1, I must thank BENMYCHREE on 2 parts:
1st is the Driving Pin (not shown in the drawing). He mentioned that it unscrews. Mine simply looks to be a piece of Allen key that had been driven into part (27) so hard that it fractured. Screwdriver slot is that bad. I'll be making a replacement.
2nd is the above quote that describes just what all it is we are talking about. I tried to add part numbers to his part descriptions, but ran out of parts in the drawing to refer to.

I also thank 4GSR for his input!

Now SEASICKSTEVE & BENMYCHREE might have parts going to where they can be put to good use! All in all, to quote my favorite line from the movie Overboard, "It's been a hell of a day at sea Sir!"

I'll pick back up on part 1 when my mini end mills come in so repairs can be made to the back index pin (43).

Keep Rockin,
b
 
The parts diagram, although generally it is illustrative and fairly true to the original it is not made by B&S, but by a Japanese manufacturer; I bought one of these new, and used it many years until I was able to find a genuine one; thanks, E Bay!
 
BROCKWOOD said:
View attachment 235000
BENMYCHREE wrote, "On mine, the pin fits into the collar (42) that fits in the sleeve (40) that carries the back index pin (43); when you push the index pin against the spring and rotate the collar with the pin engaging in the keyway in the pin carrier, and rotate the collar into the circumferential groove in the pin carrier, it locks the pin out of engagement with the back of the index disc so that it may freely rotate when doing spiral cutting or differential indexing. It also makes it easier to change index plates by not having the pressure against the plate tending to cock it and make it difficult to start the screws in the plate."

Guys, the drawing doesn't fit all versions, isn't complete & does not offer up an official name for any of the parts (such as would be seen on a parts list). I am thrilled that this open discussion has begun. But, I realize that in introducing part 2 before finishing part 1, much confusion crept in. I apologize. Before deconstructing all this back to part 1, I must thank BENMYCHREE on 2 parts:
1st is the Driving Pin (not shown in the drawing). He mentioned that it unscrews. Mine simply looks to be a piece of Allen key that had been driven into part (27) so hard that it fractured. Screwdriver slot is that bad. I'll be making a replacement.
2nd is the above quote that describes just what all it is we are talking about. I tried to add part numbers to his part descriptions, but ran out of parts in the drawing to refer to.

I also thank 4GSR for his input!

Now SEASICKSTEVE & BENMYCHREE might have parts going to where they can be put to good use! All in all, to quote my favorite line from the movie Overboard, "It's been a hell of a day at sea Sir!"

I'll pick back up on part 1 when my mini end mills come in so repairs can be made to the back index pin (43).

Keep Rockin,
b
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Hey, is there a chance of getting a scan of your manual to your dividing head? I know there is a scan of the BS-1 manual/parts book in the down loads... I'm to go look to see if the BS-2 manual exists.

EDIT:

Here's the scan available to all here. Yeah, it's from the Japanese company, too.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/b-s-dividing-head-n0-0-1-2-specs-pdf.2216/
 
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Hey Ken, I have manipulated page 6 from the usual B&S 0-1-2 that we all have seen. All I did was cut out the B&S 0, 1 & tailstock portions then move the title & resize it all. I wish I did have a manual that answered the questions we have raised on this thread!
 
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