JB Weld is amazing stuff and seems to work on everything! I tried the Harbor Freight version and it works well too. I found it really needs to set a full 24 hours before use.
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Broken Pulley - fix or replace?
- Thread starter PurpLev
- Start date
seriously Sharon? You actually posted a "should I buy a new one, instead of making one" question on a hobby machinist forum. Shame on you. machine a new one out of Al of course. :miner:
unless of course it's the pully from hell, but I would think it would be easy enough to make a new one on the lathe, and certainly cheaper then $60.
OUCH... BUSTED :bitingnails: lol
as a last resort I could make one no question asked, but with 2 young kids I don't have much shop time, and when I do I'd rather be building custom pieces than pulleys that I could outsource easily - or better yet - fix.
I'll shop around see what rough stock for this would hurt me
how long ago did you move?
I know
I'm thinking that's what I'll just end up doing looking at these photos again and considering this is the slowest speed... worst case can fabricate another pulley in the future. no rush. Thanks for the responses from everyone! good thought process and feedback.
)
I make stuff like that on a (all too) regular basis -usually of low carbon steel because they're used for high-horsepower applications. In that particular case, you have a bunch of options for fabricating it. If you buy one big round of material, most of it will end-up as swarf. In some cases, I've purchased varying diameters of round stock, made the individual sheaves then fastened them together either with bolts or TIG. It's a trade-off between material cost and time.
Someone down below mentioned aluminum. It 6061 would probably work fine in that application although it's not an ideal material for v-belts -but in this case, I wouldn't sweat it. I have a bunch of rounds big enough for that one.
Don't bother with cast iron, it will cost you a fortune.
Hate to admit this but, if it were mine and felt the need to fix it, I'd google "stepped pulley", find the size I need and be prepared to pay as much for shipping as the unit cost... They're going for about 20 bucks. -I Know... Booo. Shame on me....
Ray
Someone down below mentioned aluminum. It 6061 would probably work fine in that application although it's not an ideal material for v-belts -but in this case, I wouldn't sweat it. I have a bunch of rounds big enough for that one.
Don't bother with cast iron, it will cost you a fortune.
Hate to admit this but, if it were mine and felt the need to fix it, I'd google "stepped pulley", find the size I need and be prepared to pay as much for shipping as the unit cost... They're going for about 20 bucks. -I Know... Booo. Shame on me....
Ray
You could also replace JUST that ONE sheave section of the pulley, or even just that one WALL of the broken sheave section. That'd cost you a whole lot less wasted metal, and be a lot easier to do.
Machine the inside of the pulley to a true cylinder, make up an insert that fits it, and epoxy it into place. Bolt through a new 5/8" or 3/4" blank into the insert. Turn the blank to the right size & cut your one V-groove in it. Done.
Machine the inside of the pulley to a true cylinder, make up an insert that fits it, and epoxy it into place. Bolt through a new 5/8" or 3/4" blank into the insert. Turn the blank to the right size & cut your one V-groove in it. Done.
Sharon,
Sounds like you are getting some good practical advise. Now here is my 2¢. I my self do not even mess with the speed changes. I am currently wearing out my middle sheave. I just don't find that it is worth the effort to make those changes. So, with that being said I would consider two options. One, just knock off the rough edges with emery cloth or file and never look back. Two, just cut off the broken flange entirely and never look back. Now with that said, it just may be one of those things that buggs ya. And if that were the case, I would grind the broken area and weld in some new and machine back to working condition. Then again, I may find that it is not worth any of the effort and just replace completely.
I think it is down to you just making a decision now. And that is something all these great minds here can not do for ya. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the choices. Well, I am sure this is a really big help.
Sounds like you are getting some good practical advise. Now here is my 2¢. I my self do not even mess with the speed changes. I am currently wearing out my middle sheave. I just don't find that it is worth the effort to make those changes. So, with that being said I would consider two options. One, just knock off the rough edges with emery cloth or file and never look back. Two, just cut off the broken flange entirely and never look back. Now with that said, it just may be one of those things that buggs ya. And if that were the case, I would grind the broken area and weld in some new and machine back to working condition. Then again, I may find that it is not worth any of the effort and just replace completely.
I think it is down to you just making a decision now. And that is something all these great minds here can not do for ya. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the choices. Well, I am sure this is a really big help.
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