Broken headstock bushing mount on a 03701.

Mark, besides the 101.07300 having no back gears (and no place to attach them), it has a smaller spindle with 3/4"-16 threads.

Stefan,

Most of the parts on the 101.07301 and the 618 or 101.21400 are the same. But you cannot use the sleeve bearing spindle in the timken bearing headstock. The sleeve bearing headstock is longer so you may have to drill new mounting holes. All that I know about the bed is that it has a different part number. It may be just a little longer but that only matters to the lead screw and rack. The three gears and pulley are the same, as is the end float adjusting collar. The spacer is different and of course the 618 does not have a separate thrust bearing. However, there have been two or three 07301's converted that I've heard of.. So Just set the Timken headstock on the bed and slide it left or right a littke to align the gear train with the screw gear. You may have to drill four new mounting holes. And you may have to move the countershaft to the left slightly to line up the spindle belt.

The 618 countershaft is different but the one on the 07301 happens to be the second version 618 one. I would suspect that you will have to move the countershaft slightly.
The
 
Last edited:
Taking another look at it.......If you are not that comfortable with my first suggestion there is another option similar but would not be nearly as good looking of a repair..

You could drill and tap/rivet a few places on each side of the break where the thicker metal is located and then do a "Bridge" type repair where you screw/rivet down a few pieces of maybe some spring steel banding so that you have enough movement in the bushing to remount the gears while also allowing you to drill holes completely away from the bushing race or other more delicate areas of the headstock casting. You will also be able to drill 90° perpendicular into the casting in areas where it wouldnt be affected by adding a few small holes. As i said it won't be pretty but it will hold strong without the need to weld and you could still add in the epoxy support "glue" to back up the bands.
 
Unfortunately, the odds against having low runout on the spindle nose after the repair are significant. In my opinion, repair is not a viable option in this case.
 
wa5cab said:
Unfortunately, the odds against having low runout on the spindle nose after the repair are significant. In my opinion, repair is not a viable option in this case.
Click to expand...
I was worried about this as well. I have a new Head Cast on bid right now. $25 hopefully it pulls through. I'm going to repair this one regardless as it's a good learning experience. I decided to Silver Braze it. I'll cut a V- notch on it and pin it along with the silver. I'll have a friend clean the bearing hole up with his lathe to help cit back on the runout. It will be a fun experience never the less.
 
Something else for you all to consider for parts is 3-D printing. I talked to a local machine shop and they scan the part and reprint it. Surprisingly, it's not that expensive. Depending on what materials you want it made in decides the cost. I was a little skeptical, but he showed me a gear they printed and are running in one of their larger lathes. I know some of you might say what's a machine shop doing 3-D printing, but times are changing. They have been in the machining business since 1967.
 
Stefen said:
I was worried about this as well. I have a new Head Cast on bid right now. $25 hopefully it pulls through. I'm going to repair this one regardless as it's a good learning experience. I decided to Silver Braze it. I'll cut a V- notch on it and pin it along with the silver. I'll have a friend clean the bearing hole up with his lathe to help cit back on the runout. It will be a fun experience never the less.
Click to expand...

How did your repair turn out? I have the same lathe, and it had the same break in the same place as yours. My machinist father and I agreed that there is not enough material there for an effective braze or weld repair. My options were either to do some strategic milling on the head casting so that we could bolt or pin on a new fabricated steel bearing cap, OR find a replacement head stock casting. I found one almost immediately on eBay for $30. It fit perfectly. If you go that route, once you get it all back together, put tapered centers in the head and tail stocks, bring the tail stock in so that the centers are tip to tip, and make any adjustments to make sure they are in alignment with each other. Front to back adjustments are made at the base of the tail stock. Height adjustments will require shimming or scraping where the head stock meets the bed.

My replacement head stock casting required no adjustment.

Hope it all is working out well for you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top