Broke my lathe PM1127

I'll try that when I get home, but I'm not sure if my drill bit will be able to reach that far into the chuck.

An idea I was thinking of was to make a sleeve for the round shaft and make it thick enough that the chuck jaws will not be able to reach the threaded part. Then I add in a countersunk set screw to keep the part from spinning inside the sleeve

I hope your idea works because mine will require a lot more work to accomplish
 
A sleeve would work if you can't reach it with your drill. Instead of a set screw, just split the sleeve so it will squeeze together.
 
I haven't tried it, but if you loosen the set screw in the adjustment nut at the top, I think you can remove it. That should make gripping the shaft easier. The oiler run through the middle of the shaft, so don't crank down too hard on the chuck or you risk crushing it.

Then you use an indicator on the outside to get it concentric in the 4 jaw.

Bummer about that breaking. I might have to make a couple for backups.
 
First I'll offer an opinion as to why it broke. Based on the position of the break, it looks like the stud was not screwed in all the way to the shoulder, so this would put enormous pressure on the weakest part of the stud, the threads. The way that is made, it looks like it is intended to be screwed into the shoulder, tight, then the outer adjusting nut would be tightened to get the proper side clearance for the gear. In the picture is shows the adjusting nut at about the limit of its travel, and the length of the remaining threads showing is just about the length of the visible adjusting nut threads on the stud.

To dial in the stud properly in the 4-jaw. You need to check both ends. You state that on the left side you are about 0.001 and near the end it's around 0.005. So put the indicator near the end, use a small hammer (preferably soft) to bump it into concentricity. You'll need to work back & forth until you get it dialed in on both ends.
 
I had some success. I managed to get it drilled and tapped with m6 1.0, put my threaded rod in there and cut to length. Only issue is that, for some reason, there's a little bit of play when I wiggle it. I added red loctite, and put a nut on tight "pulling" on the threaded rod outward to straighten it while the thread locker does its thing. I think this'll work, and if not, I'll have to make the whole thing from scratch. I haven't heard from Precision Matthews yet but it's the weekend so we'll see.

I'm hoping I can buy a pack of these things from them, as well as the parts that goes inside the gears that attaches 2 together.
 
I'm back in business. Everything is in working order.

I have the gear arranged and set to thread 1.0mm

Does anyone know if it's normal for the lathe to be noisy if you have the gears arranged for threading? No matter what pitch, SAE or metric, my lathe is always noisy when the gears are arranged for threading. A lot noisier.
 
Yes the gears will be noisy. If you place them too close together it is even worst. Use a piece of paper as a spacer between the gear tooth. Whether to use oil or grease is a personal decision. Grease tends to be quieter but debris can cling to it.
 
pdentrem said:
Yes the gears will be noisy. If you place them too close together it is even worst. Use a piece of paper as a spacer between the gear tooth. Whether to use oil or grease is a personal decision. Grease tends to be quieter but debris can cling to it.
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I always use paper and setting up gears, kind of a pain in the butt actually

I should've gotten the PM1228 or PM1236...
 
Precision Matthews just sent me an email and they were nice enough to send me 5 of the bolts and they're also sending me 5 of the inner gear rings that hold 2 gears together for free.
 
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