OK, good progress made. I put the jaw in my mill vise and used a 3/4" roughing mill to make an "X" pattern in the bushing so that the walls were thin enough to split with a bushing splitter punch. Once the bushing was removed in two pieces, the retainer pin was plainly visible, and could be easily driven out from the inside. It's a blind pin, so there is no other practical way I can think of to remove it. You couldn't see it at all. Like Billh50 mentioned, they drove it in before machining the final surface.
The casting ID for the bushing is 1.250", and the pin is .125". I've done quite a bit of internal threading, so I thought it would be fun to grind up an Acme thread cutter tool and give it a go, but the biggest piece of brass or bearing bronze I have is 1.000". I have some ground/polished 1.250" 1018 steel rod, but the old one was brass, so it's probably a good idea to stay with brass for the new one.
The brass bushing from McMaster-Carr is ~$15 plus shipping. The OD of the new bushing is listed as 1.253". Almost sounds like it was made for this project. I'm thinking I will freeze the bushing and warm up the jaw before pressing the new bushing in. Then just drill and press in a new retainer pin.
Although the new bushing is not installed yet, it seems like removing the old one would be the more challenging part of the repair. It will probably be Tuesday or Wednesday before I get my new bushing with the holiday weekend and all. Wish I had some 1.250 brass round stock to play with in the meantime
GG