Re the KBIC board, they're simple enough to use: Be aware that the board and its connections are *NOT* isolated from the AC line!
You'll need the board, the appropriate current sense resistor, a 5K linear pot and a fwd/off/rev switch - for safety, two fuse holders and fuses - a 10A for the incoming AC hot, a 10A for the armature.
Board connections:
There are L1 and L2 for the AC110V input, A+ A- for the armature connections, F+ F- for the field connections
Three connections for a 5K linear pot for speed control - connect max to the clockwise end of the pot track, min to anticlockwise, the third (nearest the "accel" preset) to the wiper. To implement a rapid-feed switch (max speed) put a push-to-make from max to the wiper with a 100 Ohm 1-watt resistor in series.
You'll want a current sense resistor for 1HP to set the maximum current limit - the board supplier should have these, they plug in!
I1 and I2 inhibit connections to allow for DC braking, reversing etc. - you don't *need* to use these if you use a 3-pole switch for forward/off/reverse and use it to also switch the AC power.
To use a 3-pole switch, take F+ to one pole common, F- to another, cross-connect the field connections from the motor so it reverses, then take the power line hot wire through the other switch pole, with a jumper so it connects in either FWD or Rev, but breaks the circuit while switching (this means making sure you get a "break before make" switch).
This pretty much sums up how the small lathes hook up their DC motors for variable speed and reversing, although they don't use the field connections, being permanent-magnet motors
Now we come to... Adjustments!
On the board are 5 small preset pots - min (minimum speed), max (maximum), Accel (acceleration), CL (Current limit) and IRComp (IR compensation, which sets speed regulation under varying load)
First set the max pot with the front-panel control set to maximum, aim for the highest speed you'll want your power feed motor to go. Be sensible!
Set the min pot, you can set this to zero speed if you like.
Set the accel pot midway.
With a current meter in circuit (either on A+ or A- if you have a DC ammeter, or if you only have an AC clamp meter put one of the AC inputs through it), turn CL fully anti-clockwise, put the motor on maximum speed and apply a heavy load while watching the meter - adjust CL slowly *upwards* until you reach your motor's rated current. If you're worried about "finger trouble" put a dab of nail varnish/similar on the top of the CL pot to lock it!
Finally, if the motor speed changes too much between loaded and unloaded, adjust the IRComp - don't go too far either way, or the motor will start to "hunt" or surge up and down in speed at one extreme, fail to maintain speed under load at the other.
Most of the information should be in the booklet that *should* come with the board, but may be hard to get your head around
Hope that helps,
Dave H. (the other one)
[EDIT] - Oops! forgot about limit switches! if you have separate limit switches for the two directions, it's probably easiest to mod the wiring form the above - simplest way is to wire the AC hot to the two limit switches, from those to the FWD and REV sides of the third switch pole and take the common of that pole back to the L1 on the KB board - this will break the power to the board when it hits the forward limit switch, but flipping over to reverse will back away from the stop, and vice versa. If I were doing this myself, I'd look at using a 24V control circuit and relays instead of running 110V to/from the limit switches, being of the Cautious persuasion...
