Bridgeport Power Feed 6f Motor Mount Question

The 51813 anaerobic sealer is Permatex brand (once a parts guy, always a parts guy) and needs to be confined to within a fifteen thousandths (.015") or less to harden. Let it set up for a day or so at 70 degrees F., much longer in the cold before putting oil in the case. Bigger gaps also take longer to set up...
 
Bob Korves said:
The 51813 anaerobic sealer is Permatex brand (once a parts guy, always a parts guy) and needs to be confined to within a fifteen thousandths (.015") or less to harden. Let it set up for a day or so at 70 degrees F., much longer in the cold before putting oil in the case. Bigger gaps also take longer to set up...
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OK tomorrow I'll be cleaning up the surfaces and getting it put back together. I guess I'll just bring the entire assembly into the house to cure before reattaching to the mill. Wonder how that will go with the wife. I'll have to find a place near a radiator to keep it toasty for the next day or two. Thanks Bob I appreciate the help on the anaerobic sealer. A couple of the parts guys didn't know what I was talking about but tried hard to help. Once I got to the store that had it several non-millennial guys knew exactly what it was.

Paul
 
Anaerobic merely means that it works in the absence of air. The squeeze tubes are actually porous so it does not set up in the tube.
 
Well just for testing I wired the motor back up before putting it all together. It did not respond to feed control until I turned it up a bit. Once it moved I turned it up a bit more and sure enough it blew the fuse. So I'm at a loss as to why.
 
So I've gone back to this and took the circuit board out. Cleaned it thoroughly with contact cleaner as suggested. I also spent a couple of hours going through the resistors on the board. De soldering, testing and re-soldering. I've found a couple that are out of tolerance so I will replace those. On those odd bullet/tapered (diodes?) any ideas on what i can replace them with? I haven't gotten as far as figuring out how to test them or even what else to test on the board. I'd like to test and replace everything on the board that needs it. Any pointers? I have the diagrams and I am too much of an amateur to read much of it.

And another side note for anyone deciding to do this make sure you have a solder sucker(spring loaded kind is what I have). They work great and are cheap. Tin the end of your soldering iron each time before de-soldering. Makes it a ton easier and don't linger when heating up the solder on the board you can lift your pads/traces. Those solder wicks are terrible.
 
Today I found a capacitor that had a broken leg. I can't imagine that it would have worked at all with that disconnected so I'm not totally sure that was like that before I started working on it.

Anyone have any idea what Watts the resistors are on that board? They all appear to be 1/2 watt but I'm not certain. I am however certain that Radio Shack doesn't have any of my needed resistors and the capacitors they had were 35 volt instead of 25v so that won't work either. Looks like I'll be ordering online. Bummer.

All the diodes seem to be OK I checked those today. Also pulled the motor apart again and cleaned it more thoroughly with the contact cleaner. The commutator was dinged up and worn unevenly. So I put it on the Logan and turned it down a few hairs and then cleaned it up with some 600 grit sand paper.

Tomorrow the other capacitors (get to try the new tester I got at the shack for this.) Also get to check the Pots and the two transformers if I can figure it out. After that all that is left I think is the micro switches that control the direction of feed. Oh and the pot for the speed control. All a good learning experience.
 
expressline99 said:
Today I found a capacitor that had a broken leg. I can't imagine that it would have worked at all with that disconnected so I'm not totally sure that was like that before I started working on it.

Anyone have any idea what Watts the resistors are on that board? They all appear to be 1/2 watt but I'm not certain. I am however certain that Radio Shack doesn't have any of my needed resistors and the capacitors they had were 35 volt instead of 25v so that won't work either. Looks like I'll be ordering online. Bummer.

All the diodes seem to be OK I checked those today. Also pulled the motor apart again and cleaned it more thoroughly with the contact cleaner. The commutator was dinged up and worn unevenly. So I put it on the Logan and turned it down a few hairs and then cleaned it up with some 600 grit sand paper.

Tomorrow the other capacitors (get to try the new tester I got at the shack for this.) Also get to check the Pots and the two transformers if I can figure it out. After that all that is left I think is the micro switches that control the direction of feed. Oh and the pot for the speed control. All a good learning experience.
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Wattage on the resistors does not matter as long as you go with the same or higher rating and they can physically fit. The higher voltage rating for a capacitor is a good thing, can handle higher transient peaks. Again, don't go lower, make sure it will fit where it needs to go.
 
Bob Korves said:
Wattage on the resistors does not matter as long as you go with the same or higher rating and they can physically fit. The higher voltage rating for a capacitor is a good thing, can handle higher transient peaks. Again, don't go lower, make sure it will fit where it needs to go.
Click to expand...
I would focus more on getting a cap with a higher temp rating. The ones with the higher temp rating typically last longer . And yes, of course, make sure it has the correct working voltage…Dave.
 
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chips&more said:
NOTE: Electrolytic capacitors are polarity sensitive! They go in the circuit in one direction only!
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They have a strange stripe down one side that has what looks like "O"s along it with "-"s inside the Os. The dashes are actually minuses, the negative connection side of the capacitor.
 
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