Bridgeport paint color

This thread is ten years old.

Don't worry, It's happened to all of us! :p
 
One site I am on has a thread that has been going for at least a decade with thousands of post.
It is actually pretty cool.....
 
I have been cleaning mine up to get it ready to paint. Using an angle grinder and cup brush. Have worked 3 sessions and the paint dust makes me sick every time. Short sessions before, but today I did about 1 1/2 hrs with a paint mask and it was still bad. Did not mean to do a full strip but a lot of flaking off layers. Probably 3-4 gallons of paint dust on the floor to sweep and vacuum. And one pound on me.
 
Get the 3 pack of grill cleaner from Sam's club.

It is spray on oven cleaner, works will on paint.

Take it down to base then build up with rust-olium smoke gray.

Lowes and home depot both sell it, but different formula.

Get the one that thins with acetone.

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CJ5Dave said:
I have been cleaning mine up to get it ready to paint. Using an angle grinder and cup brush. Have worked 3 sessions and the paint dust makes me sick every time. Short sessions before, but today I did about 1 1/2 hrs with a paint mask and it was still bad. Did not mean to do a full strip but a lot of flaking off layers. Probably 3-4 gallons of paint dust on the floor to sweep and vacuum. And one pound on me.
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Dave, I didn't get that carried away when I did my Bridgeport. I only sanded and smoothed a little and then just put on new paint. Be sure to use hardener in oil based enamel paint. Problem is, once you are back in operation, the lube oil will quickly stain it all over again. Personally, I wouldn't work too hard at it. Just a fresh paint job will clean it up a lot. Good luck and post photos of your project.
 
Yeah, I don't have a museum, just a shop. I don't care about restoration, its just working out pretty well and I want it to at least look clean. I have not painted the old lathe yet. Not excited about painting something till it functions correctly. That's an old auction trick. So many people are fooled by new paint. Its like wearing a 3 piece suit with dirty underwear underneath.
 
Well it looks better anyway. Strictly low budget- Lyman power feed saved from scrap, mud flap way covers, Walmart work light. Still can’t get the quill power feed to work right, despite a bunch of adjustments, cleaning and new parts. My EBay quill safety clutch is .003 too small to go over the shaft.
 

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Years ago I got a Delta Unisaw from the first year of manufacture, 1939. It was in great shape and had the 4 feet on bottom that marks that year. It came from a school shop and was painted a couple of colors that were, charitably speaking "slapped on". I wanted my new prize to look 'right' and 'correct'. I was one of a number of people who were somewhat obsessed with the "correct" color of paint. I understand the feeling and applaud those who feel that way.

But, in collecting some old original Delta Catalogs I found that in 1939 you could buy paint for your machine direct from Delta. What better way to get the correct color back then? I was surprised to see the Catalog listed 3 color choices available for their grey machine paint, light, medium and dak.

These days I'm in the camp of just pick whatever color you want based on these criteria:
  1. What color do you like
  2. What color can you get
  3. How much are you willing to pay
I'll never look down on those who want it original. But I'm convinced that original could vary greatly based on what the factory found when they considered numbers 2 and 3 above.
 
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