Bridgeport CNC with Masso Controller/Clearpath

This is going to be my first CNC build and my First build log. I've decided that a build log on this forum might be a good idea for this project so the next guy to take on this project doesn't have to deal with the stupid stuff I'm already running into.

This is my Masso Controller

I will be using 3 Clearpath Stepper Killer servos model# CPM-SDSK-3432S-RLN

They are a little over 6" long...

almost 3.5"

1/2" shaft with a 3/16" keyway

I will be using Teknic's IPC-5 75VDC power supply


But before you can wire up you Masso controller you have to power up the Clearpath servos and plug them in to a PC with the ClearPath USB-B cable and it absolutely has to be their cable I've already tried 5 others, now I'm waiting for UPS to deliver a "Teknic Certified" USB cable. Very Lame....

Their program will not see my servos without the "Teknic Certified" USB cable...


Edit: Almost any USB cable will work.... lol

 

I couldn't help myself once I saw how bad it looked..... i'm not taking it down very far just a quick couple passes for oil...

Thien I will do the knee and table just a little bit

 

Damn thats a lot of bearings!..... This really needed to happen these old bearings are crazy sloppy and full of dried up grease... I'm not sleeping until I get Gcode running.....

Most of the old bearings are NORMA brand....

 

Looking good.

I have never operated a CNC mill before. Maybe it is the old fart in me, but it would drive me nuts not to have the ability to move the knee or table with a handle. I know that you can do so through the control panel, and I would probably get use to it but seems combersome for some reason. I am probably back ass-word on this.

 

Looking good.

I have never operated a CNC mill before. Maybe it is the old fart in me, but it would drive me nuts not to have the ability to move the knee or table with a handle. I know that you can do so through the control panel, and I would probably get use to it but seems combersome for some reason. I am probably back ass-word on this.

I am actually planning on installing 3 CNC MPG hand wheels on this machine so I can run it manually and use the cnc controler as a dro.

 

Looking good.

I have never operated a CNC mill before. Maybe it is the old fart in me, but it would drive me nuts not to have the ability to move the knee or table with a handle. I know that you can do so through the control panel, and I would probably get use to it but seems combersome for some reason. I am probably back ass-word on this.

I was a hand-wheel only guy too until I bought a Bridgeport with a 2-axis Anilam controller around 3 years ago. Mine still maintains hand wheel control if the servos aren't powered up; best of both worlds. CNC is such a game changer for certain things. You don't get the feel of chatter if you are cutting too hard, but making arcs and anything repetitive is sooo nice.

If you can follow a recipe in a cookbook, you can learn G-code. It's just simple instructions telling the machine what to do and how fast to do it.

Bruce

 

I was a hand-wheel only guy too until I bought a Bridgeport with a 2-axis Anilam controller around 3 years ago. Mine still maintains hand wheel control if the servos aren't powered up; best of both worlds.

this one will be a bit different the servos will be powered all the time and be making the moves so there will be no backlash but there also wont be much or any feel in the hand wheels.....

 

Hey @Cooter Brown - where you at? Have you made any progress on the conversion?

 

John K at the class was an engineer, he gave me some great design tips for the Y-axis. He also helped me with the knee now it's accurate within .0005"

thanks for the writeup it has been a lot of help, i have several questions about the knee. I have a mid 90s bridgeport eztrak sx, so ball screws and drive servos (analog DC) in X and Y and no stock Z control so stock is 2D cnc, I'm wanting to go the knee route for my Z axis, I was thinking of bypassing the bevel gear for the knee by mounting the servo in the knee, but it would be easier the use the stock knee assembly (use the bevel gear). What did you do to get .0005" accuracy out of that considering the bevel gears will have a lot of backlash? i'm planning on using an air spring to keep the up drive forces within reason while keeping some load on the assembly to reduce backlash.
what are your experiences with your setup and any ideas that you have that would keep me from going down the wrong road would be appreciated.