Bouncing Motor and Mount on 12" Craftsman

Oh Crud..... This might just be a case of too dumb for my own good, plus a healthy dose of "Newby-itis"...

Where should the Tension rod be positioned while running the lathe? Between the two notches, or all the way behind the notches? I've been hanging the weight of the motor, etc off the tension rod (See pictures above) thinking the belt needed to be as tight as possible...

I just tried it placed between the notches, shortened the link belt two links, and - No more bounce....

Doh! (Head slap)

-Mike
 
I would put a dial indicator on pulleys, etc to find out the movement. Any more than .001 or .002" means there is an area to fix.
I had a small vibration problem and fixed it by balancing the pulleys, using a new cogged belt direct from Gates( no set), and improving the lathe stand.I started by measuring run out on the motor spindle and went from there.
To measure vibration I put dial indicator on a separate stand with the tip against the headstock of lathe. Eventually I got the movement to less than .0002".
 
I don't have any experience with the early 12" countershaft assembly. But whether you are dealing with a belt driven lathe or anything else belt driven, you should never depend upon the weight of the motor to determine the belt tension. The motor should be rigidly mounted. Period.
 
I have the tension rod between the notches when I run the lathe.
 
Tell me a little more about how you adjusted the tension. As you know with the 101.27440, the motor hangs off the back and its weight sets the tension to the inner belt. But the first-level belt (motor to pulleys) tension is set by that adjustable screw. I discovered changing that tension affects vibration and noise. But it's all eye-balling it. How did you find 'the happy spot'?

thx

-Mike
Continuous eyeballing and adjustment until I get tired of fooling with it.

I have had some experience setting tension on industrial motors. I don't know the deflection vs tension formula but I have a grasp of the general area of what is acceptable. When I first acquired the lathe and installed a new motor, I adjusted the belt tension to "TLAR", (That Looks About Right) and then tinkered with it until I got tired of fooling with it. Like many machinist jobs, there is a matter of touch that cannot be quantified, it just has to be learned through experience. I suppose my expression could just as well be "That Feels About Right" ot TFAR. Sort of knowing just as the torque wrench clicks.

Belt tension should never be set using the motor weight, there is a formula that I can't remember. But after 50 odd years, I sort of have a feel for machinery. Sorry, I can't get closer than that. Most belted machinery has that setscrew available. Sometimes on used machinery, it will only be a tapped hole where the previous owner didn't know. Looking for instructions for automotive belts will get you in the ball park. It won't be exact, but quite close.

I have a couple other Atlas machines, a Shaper and a Milling Machine. They also have that screw on the motor bracket. The shaper didn't have a bolt from the previous owner. But I looked, and there was the hole. . . It was acquired from a school so had many users tinkering with it. No telling how long it had been gone.

The lathe was later acquired from a welding shop who had found it from the original purchaser. Being mechanically inclined, they knew what the screw was for. I watched while he torch welded (OA) a carburator casting. I was quite impressed, they knew what they were doing. The milling machine was also acquired from a man that was mechanically inclined and knew not to remove the screw.

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I don't have any experience with the early 12" countershaft assembly. But whether you are dealing with a belt driven lathe or anything else belt driven, you should never depend upon the weight of the motor to determine the belt tension. The motor should be rigidly mounted. Period.

ditto. Your motor is bouncing because the motor pulley rides up the belt a little bit and then the weight of it causes it to fall back, over and over again. Make sure that the belt between the motor and countershaft is positively tensioned (not just by motor weight) or the motor is rigidly mounted as above.

that'll cure the problem, though there may be other areas of improvement that are worth pursuing.
 
Thanks everyone for the help!! Now that I understand about setting the torsion bar between the notches and NOT letting the weight of the cantilevered motor pull the belt tight, its amazing how much smoother it runs!

As a great man once said to me "Nothing is obvious to the uniformed..."

Now, are are smarter. Or something like that.

Thanks again everyone!

-Mike
 
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