Bought an Alexander 2CG tool grinder

[COMachinist]

If uses the same collets as the deckel, they’re still available. S20 thread:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-18pcs-U2-Sharpener-Collet-355E-S20x2-Deckel-FP-1-18mm-in-1mm-960/132134693794?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

The end mill grinding head sounds good. Do you have a link or a reference to which edition of HSM it was in?

The first part was March/April, part was May/June, 3rd part July/Aug. the 4th was in September/October 2013. I figured I work up a design based kind of on the head. To hold end mills in C5 collets. And make platform to tilt the end mill to grind the ends on a cup wheel.
CH

 

[Sblack]

I have the same machine. There seems to be some differences between it and the Deckel. The wheel hub is held on with a big nut on a shaft, not a 6mm socket head cap screw. So I need to figure out which wheel hubs I need or make some. I also have a chinese clone and there is no comparison as to the smoothness. The Alexander is really nice - a precision too. The Deckel type collets can be found on ebay for imperial sizes and the chinese sources for metric. Chinese clone machines use 5C which are so much easier and cheaper to find, and you can get collets for square material. I wish the Alexander used them , but you can't have everything. If you find a manual for this (since it is a bit different than a deckel) I would be interested in a copy.

 

[gerritv]

I just obtained an Alexander 2CGD in very good condition, but there are no wheel flanges. Does anyone have dimension for the 2 types, one has balancing wieghts, the other doesn't (the latter is for tapered cup wheels.
Even some photos with a scale in the shot would do. I am interested in using 20mm hole wheels although 1-1/4" arbor is appealing as well.

I will be doing end mills and split point drill as well as the usual d-bits.

 

[gerritv]

Made 9 hubs, 6 regular, 3 for thicker backed wheels. Presently making a base with drawers for collets etc. Already have a new 16mm collet with ER16M chuck to do drills etc.
In the process had to sharpen a center drill, no problem at all. Looking forward to regrinding a bunch of dulled drills soon, four facet on the way!

 

[Sblack]

Did you use any special material for the hubs? Please show how you do a split point drill. I'd like to see that! Nice work.

 

[gerritv]

I had bought a bunch of metal from a local hobbiest, included was a 4' length of Atlas Stress Proof ( made in Welland in the 1980's). Given that there is really no stress or even wear on these 12L14 or similar should be fine. Pick something that is easy to machine

You will need to make 2 mandrels and a chuck back stop to simplify the process and ease work holding. You get lots of practice single point threading as well. Having a well aligned band saw helps reduce the amount of facing.

 

[gerritv]

There was another thread started about the limitations of these type of grinders. So here is another example of what is possible: I made a right angle viewer, 20x magnification, to see small drills. 1/2" drills are easy to do without the magnifier. 135° angle, primary relief is 5°, secondary is 20°. Cuts great now, no over-sized holes and less wandering. I have done 2mm up to 1/2" so far. For smaller drills I will need to reverse the motor, the small drill bits tend to dig into the wheel.