Boring in the mill with lots of chatter. Ideas?

[ericc]

Worth it for covid sanity. I made my own boring head with a tapered shank. No interfaces. It seems to work just fine, but it is used rarely. I'd rather bore on a faceplate if I can.

 

[Janderso]

Worth it for covid sanity. I made my own boring head with a tapered shank. No interfaces. It seems to work just fine, but it is used rarely. I'd rather bore on a faceplate if I can.

You sir are in a different class than me.

 

[Larry$]

the question is, can the operator handle it?

Give it a try. I've certainly made my share of screwups. It's called learning. Last night I set up to turn some 1/2-20tpi on a longer piece. Center drilled, chucked in a 5C collet, my upside down, hand ground tool in place, made my scratch pass.... error. Lathe still set up for the last time I did metric threads. Time to change the change gears. I'll cheat and just make a few passes with the lathe then finish with a die since this is a long part and will flex. My only 1/2-209 die is a hex (rethreading die), I don't have a round adjustable die that size.

 

[Janderso]

You should get a boring head with a 30 taper shank and mount directly into the spindle taper; way too much overhang, no wonder it chatters.

John,
It made all the difference in the world.
I can actually use my mill to bore.
The auto feed is really cool!
I took a video but the file was too big.
I’ll attach a link later.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Had I taken the time to grind a shorter bar I would have had better success but as it is, it worked well enough.

 

[jwmelvin]

Looks much better. I had the same reaction the first time I used auto down feed on my knee mill.

 

[davidpbest]

John,
It made all the difference in the world.
I can actually use my mill to bore.
The auto feed is really cool!
I took a video but the file was too big.
I’ll attach a link later.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Had I taken the time to grind a shorter bar I would have had better success but as it is, it worked well enough.

If you want a Wohlhaupter or Narex type boring/facing head with a 30 taper, you can sometimes find them used on eBay, but it could take a while to find the right size head and 30 taper shank. I found my complete R8 setup on eBay about a year ago, and I can confirm it’s capable of tenths level precision. Here is a new Vertex (Taiwan) version that would set you back about US$1,100 from this supplier in the UK.

 

[Janderso]

If you want a Wohlhaupter or Narex type boring/facing head with a 30 taper, you can sometimes find them used on eBay, but it could take a while to find the right size head and 30 taper shank. I found my complete R8 setup on eBay about a year ago, and I can confirm it’s capable of tenths level precision. Here is a new Vertex (Taiwan) version that would set you back about US$1,100 from this supplier in the UK.

For $1,100, that's not a bad price if one really wanted one. The accuracy and it's unique operating capabilities makes it a valuable tool.

 

[Janderso]

Looks much better. I had the same reaction the first time I used auto down feed on my knee mill.

I think the mechanical operation of the auto down feed could be improved on. It sure has known glitches.
I went through mine a few months ago. Replaced a couple parts and deburred everything. Works slick now.

 

[DavidR8]

What is this "auto down feed" thing you speak of?

 

[MrWhoopee]

I think the mechanical operation of the auto down feed could be improved on. It sure has known glitches.
I went through mine a few months ago. Replaced a couple parts and deburred everything. Works slick now.

I have to work on mine, it won't stay engaged. I have to hold the lever to keep it from popping out. It just hasn't been enough of a problem yet to motivate me to dig into it.