Boring Head Interchangeability

Wow, I sure had that figured wrong... Never saw any like it, though they look really useful in a bigger shop or factory. They also look more versatile across machine platforms than the boring heads we are used to seeing. Thanks for the education!
 
Not all of them are adjustable, however. If you notice there is a socket cap screw from the face of the head to lock it into position. The bar that has the mating dovetail is split and expands to hold it. There is some adjustment in one of the heads you have, the one with the small, round insert holder protruding at an angle. I can't see it on that one, but some versions of that style have what they call "micro-adjustment" which extend or retract the holder mounted in the head. All around, it's a versatile tool system. But I agree, Bob....not all hobbyist will have a use for them, or even the machine large enough for them. Or I should qualify that by saying the larger end of the system. The smaller, R8 and possibly some with 30 and 40 taper machines could use some of them.
 
Yes, I suppose much of that sort of tooling actually in use is in a production or intensive dedicated repair environment.
 
Such is the case with most modular tooling systems. You start with the bar or holder, for either lathe or mill, then select the currently needed head. It's a money saver in the long run. One bar, for example, to set up the one 4" head I have, is about $3k, last I checked. It was about 4 feet long. That sounds like a lot, but if you see it the way Sandvik wants you to, you will see that one bar as capable of being used to bore, thread, groove, face, etc. without having to have separate bars. Just swap heads when you need to run a different operation. Naturally if they are all on the same part the money logic fails, but for many production jobs, a single function is all you need at one time. So you can save some money. Often though, you have to consider the fact that if you have a turret style CNC lathe, it has to be able to swing that 4 foot bar around without colliding with anything. Not many lathes can swing it. So there's little use in mounting up 2, 3 or 4 of these bars in the first place. Same deal on a slant bed with a turret. Rarely do you hang a bar out as far as you can, but on that style turret, there isn't a lot of clearance behind the toolholder, so you can't just choke up on the bar like you'd want to to minimize the overhang. Most shops discourage sawing off the excess just to get a tool to index. So what are you going to do with all that extra bar hanging out the front? Chances are it would run all over stuff while the other tools were in the work anyway.

If/when I do need to use the head I have, I haven't decided whether to go the whole dovetail route, or simply weld it onto a bar. I probably won't be buying alternate heads for it. Then again......
 
I once used some of those heads, one operation I did on the Lucas 4" Horizontal. Rough boring the mains on a compressor frame. We had a set of extensions on which we'd put one of the bars with the boring head on the end, bore no. 1, put an extension in and bore no. 2, the saddles were almost four feet apart. one rough pass, about 3/16 on a side.
My employer also bought the "Micro Adjust" heads, and I made bars for them. Broaching a 3/16 keyway in a 3 ton arbor press at about 30 degrees is some kinda fun.
 
Ahhhh ok, thanks Tony! That explains why nobody except scrappers, bid on them.
Bob, you were right, they came from a machine/equipment repair shop a few years ago. The bars were probably included in another lot.
So, basically the operational difference between this system and a rotary system like Criterion is adjustability and the lack of an indicator.
I haven't completely given up on getting a bigger milling machine yet, so I think for now I will sort through them and get rid of the duplicates.
Two of the heads were crashed so I may experiment with them to weld up a fixed 80mm MT3 for the lathe.
That leaves me back at square one for the 5" holes.
I learned a lot! Thank you both!
 
At 1st read I'm not quite following "R8 drive", Criterion drive, but I just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents...
I often times use flycutters (3 set screws, with lathe tool bits) for boring (I made a few diff sizes up to a 4")...The shanks are all 3/4" that I would put in a R8 collet in my old Jet mill....I scale the toolbit from center in a lathe for initial size/cut (under) and swing the flycutter around with a o-1" indicator (flat tip in it) and set 0 and leave it...then, after a bore (bores) in the mill, I slide the tool bit out as needed on the lathe (measurement/adjusting by the indicator that I have left set up on the lathe...

...I like the above (while not as handy) as being more rigid for boring thicknesses that my flycutters can get thru rather than adjustable boring heads.

...Note: Of course the proper grind for boring (not much diff than turning (except more nose r for finish) on the carbide (Smiley face here) lathe tool bits in the flycutters is a must....
 
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I once used some of those heads, one operation I did on the Lucas 4" Horizontal. Rough boring the mains on a compressor frame. We had a set of extensions on which we'd put one of the bars with the boring head on the end, bore no. 1, put an extension in and bore no. 2, the saddles were almost four feet apart. one rough pass, about 3/16 on a side.
My employer also bought the "Micro Adjust" heads, and I made bars for them. Broaching a 3/16 keyway in a 3 ton arbor press at about 30 degrees is some kinda fun.
Tom,
I wasn't familiar with Lucas and had to look that up. wow thats quite a machine!
I haven't tried broaching yet, so its hard to imagine how that was accomplished..
 
Christian
Basically I was asking if my Valenite cutter heads would interchange with heads on a bar style Criterion head. Criterion cutters are readily available with R8 mounts. They're both use dovetail mounts for the heads, and I was hoping that there might me be some standardization between boring heads. Apples and oranges as the saying goes.
I will give the flycutter some thought. Thanks
 
Plum Creek,

A buddy of mine works at a shop over in Taylor. He can plasma cut the holes a little under size for you if you are interested. In fact, they could machine them to size for you too. I don't know what he would charge, but may be worth it in the long run if you don't want to tie up your own time in doing them.

I have a spare 3" Criterion boring head if you like to borrow it. Ken
 
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