Bonding all-thread to machine handle

[chips&more]

Hi and welcome. When I read the stories that Loctite did not work, I scratch my head. Because in my many many decades of using the stuff I have found out that it is not a bad product. But rather, it was using the wrong Loctite or the instructions were not followed . Also, I would pay attention when they want you to use an Activator. AND what metals/materials respond to curing the Loctite! I would read the Loctite literature and then try their products again…Dave

 

[Latinrascalrg1]

Latinrascalrg1,
First I tried the 'hand tool removeable' (blue?). That didn't work, so I tried the Red. Maybe I didn't have the threads as clean as need be, or as the Red was old, maybe it was bad? thanks for your help.
rd2012

Yes if the red loc tite had been sitting in the garage or especially a place that gets hot and cold you can get a separation of the active ingredients and will not work correctly. Sometimes it can be shaken to remix but that depends on its condition and age. Ive used the red loc tite to successfully hold 2 round taped slip fit pieces of aluminum together strong enough to cause some twisting in the bars before the connection failed amongst other users so i don't see why it wouldn't work to hold in some all thread especially with also having a lock nut as part of your setup.

 

[whitmore]

I would like to bond a piece of all-thread to the handle

The Loctite line (Henkel actually) includes lots of adhesives; the green stuff is most appropriate for fixing
a threaded rod to a handle. I'd consider soft solder, brazing, or regular old two-part epoxy, too.
There's undoubtedly something appropriate in the adhesives box...

Old-school would be to drill through, ream, and fit a taper pin.

 

[extropic]

I didn't see mention of the thread size we're discussing but, for purposes of estimating scale, I'll guess 3/8-16. If so, it looks like you you have plenty of wall thickness on the handle to drill and tap for a setscrew to secure the stud and the assembly will remain easily serviceable. Use a bit of brass rod under the setscrew to bear on the stud (won't damage the threads on the stud).

 

[jdedmon91]

The Loctite line (Henkel actually) includes lots of adhesives; the green stuff is most appropriate for fixing
a threaded rod to a handle. I'd consider soft solder, brazing, or regular old two-part epoxy, too.
There's undoubtedly something appropriate in the adhesives box...

Old-school would be to drill through, ream, and fit a taper pin.

Go for the green because I’ve never had any to turn loose


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[rd2012]

Thanks All for the great replies and solutions. Happy Fourth! rd2015

 

[hman]

You might find Rick Sparber's "Thermal Interference Fit Stud" article helpful. Implementing his idea will require either drilling and tapping your existing threaded hole more deeply, or maybe re-making the part:
http://rick.sparber.org/tfs.pdf

 

[pacifica]

pin it through the side

lot of options with pins:tapered, cap screws, set screws, roll pins(removable), so on.

 

[Cadillac STS]

One option to solve the problem would be to start over and make the entire part from one piece of steel. Use the lathe to face down to your major thread diameter on one end and thread as far as you need. Drill the through hole on the other end for the handle as it is.

Put the threaded rod and body aside for another day, another project.

 

[bluechips]

You did not mention what type of solvent you used to clean. I like to use a solvent which leaves no residue such as brake-kleen. If your solvent is leaving any kind of residue the loc-tite will generally not work.