Best way to fit these parts together.

Just make them the same size. No more, no less. They won't fit together if they are truly the same size. When I put rings on impellers, we heated the ring, a little loctite and done deal. (Dead Blow) that ring on and voila. I'm pretty sure you could bore it and use a cigarette lighter with the size. Is it rotating a certain direction? Threads?

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It will be spinning to the right, I am making a ER32 collet system for my drill press to turn it into a poor mans mill. I have already replaced the bearings in the quill with higher end double bearings that support radial and axial loads and now I am working on the driving shaft and collet chuck. In my research a 1/8 roll pin has a shear strength of between 1000 and 2000 lbs depending on the material. I would think that would hold up to the forces of a small end mill. After that I just need to add some adjustable brass slides to take the play out of the quill and add a cheap sliding table.

At this point my milling is only for decorative effects so even if it has some runout it won't make a big difference to me.
 
Jmanb13 said:
It will be spinning to the right, I am making a ER32 collet system for my drill press to turn it into a poor mans mill. I have already replaced the bearings in the quill with higher end double bearings that support radial and axial loads and now I am working on the driving shaft and collet chuck. In my research a 1/8 roll pin has a shear strength of between 1000 and 2000 lbs depending on the material. I would think that would hold up to the forces of a small end mill. After that I just need to add some adjustable brass slides to take the play out of the quill and add a cheap sliding table.

At this point my milling is only for decorative effects so even if it has some runout it won't make a big difference to me.
Click to expand...
That should work just fine
 
That sounds awesome. Could you take pictures as you go? What was the process for bearing selection and replacement? I might try this myself if pricing is good enough. Proxxon micro Mills are around $400 new.

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Toysinthehood said:
That sounds awesome. Could you take pictures as you go? What was the process for bearing selection and replacement? I might try this myself if pricing is good enough. Proxxon micro Mills are around $400 new.

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Click to expand...

Yeah I'll take some pictures and see if I can put a little info together (assuming it works :) ).

I bored out the quill to fit the new bearing last night and installed the bearing and put the stock shaft back in. At this point the run-out on the shaft without adding my ER32 chuck is less than 0.0005". My DTI goes down to 0.0005 and it barely wiggles when turning through a full turn.

A this point I need to make my ER32 chuck and install it on the shaft, add a collet and end mill and see where I end up in run-out.
 
Sounds like this project is coming along nicely, Jman. I find this quite interesting because I have an old Craftsman drillpress that might make a good candidate for this type of conversion. I'll be watching for updates and eventually might need some advice/assistance. Thanks for sharing!
-Randall
 
Hello Jman.
have you considered that slow tapers can transmit a lot of torque? All of the common tapers were developed by smart people and hard maths. It would take very little reinforcement such as a single grubscrew locating on a cone or into a seated taper surface to lock up to some very impressive numbers as to sheer. More power to your R.W.Y.H. approuch. Guys like you inspire us all.
- Barry.
 
You can also shrink the shaft in by heating the part with the ID which will expand it. All you need is a .001 or so difference in diameters and the shaft will never release. I used to shrink carbide inserts into steel for eyelet press dies and never had one pop out.
 
Randall Marx said:
Sounds like this project is coming along nicely, Jman. I find this quite interesting because I have an old Craftsman drillpress that might make a good candidate for this type of conversion. I'll be watching for updates and eventually might need some advice/assistance. Thanks for sharing!
-Randall
Click to expand...

I'm actually using my old 8" craftsman drill press as the donor. Worst case scenario I mess up a $75 drill press and lose a little cost in parts that could always be re-used elsewhere.

NortonDommi said:
Hello Jman.
have you considered that slow tapers can transmit a lot of torque? All of the common tapers were developed by smart people and hard maths. It would take very little reinforcement such as a single grubscrew locating on a cone or into a seated taper surface to lock up to some very impressive numbers as to sheer. More power to your R.W.Y.H. approuch. Guys like you inspire us all.
- Barry.
Click to expand...

I actually have! Infact I decided to use the original shaft and cut a J33 taper on the chuck. Then I will drill and secure it with a roll pin to keep it from popping off. No reason to re-create a part that is already done :). The taper plus the roll pin should be completely adequate to hold everything together safely and securely.
 
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