Beginner tool set, live center etc.

Headrc said:
One question on that DIY 4 way tool post that came with the lathe, are they meant to accommodate all the various sizes of tool bits?
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So, yes... BUT you will have to shim them to get the tool height correct, which is a PITA in my opinion. An entry level quick change tool post will run you ~$100 but might be my favorite investment for the lathe. The toolposts increase in size (OXA -> AXA -> BXA... etc.) You're probably somewhere in the OXA or AXA range (measure your compound slide to spindle centerline height thats what matters). Check out Shars and CDCO tool. They have holders for any kind of lathe tool you can think of (including boring bars), and only take seconds to swap tools.

Inserts come in shape and size (the stuff that matters anyways), you tool holder will fit any insert with the correct shape and size. For example a 1/2" SCLCR turning tool holder will hold ANY CCxx 3x.xx insert (ones for steel, aluminum, different radii, etc.). In addition, that same insert might also fit your boring bar, chamfer tool, facing tool, etc.

Grinding HSS isn't hard, and is certainly worthwhile to learn. I keep plenty of HSS tool bits on hand. Those books listed above are great.

I agree on the buy/make of the boring bar. Steel shank inserted ones aren't expensive ($20-30), and brazed carbide 9 piece sets will get you a great place to start for even cheaper, but you mileage may vary one the quality of those tools.
 
Again ...you guys are a great help. What should the measurements of compound slide to spindle centerline be for the different size tool posts be? Boy I can see this is like my music hobby ...time consuming learning curve ...should be fun though.
 
The distance from the compound to centerline is fixed and doesn't change based on different tool post holders. What can change is the distance from the bottom of the slot in the tool holder to centerline. This distance determines how large of a tool you can hold. You can always shim a smaller tool up to centerline.

Your tool holder looks like it was made for a larger lathe based on the size of the slots to hold the tooling. I would measure from the bottom of the slot to the centerline of your lathe. Close the jaws on your 3 jaw. This will be close enough to centerline. You are just looking for a rough measurement. Once this measurement is known you will know what size tooling will fit in your tool holder and not be above centerline.

I would start with HSS tooling. I found that it is not hard to grind HSS to the proper shape. Before I got a bench grinder I put the HSS in a vise and used my high speed 4" grinder to grind the HSS to shape. Not very elegant but it got the job done.
I practiced on pvc tubing. It's cheap. You can turn it, thread it and bore it. You can part it off. You can put an end cap on each end and practice turning between centers. I did this off and on whenever I had some free time for several months before I did anything with metal. I then picked up some cheap round stock from Lowes and practiced with that.
When I first started I had all these ideas about stuff to make. I learned very quickly that I didn't have the skill and knowledge to do much. Start small and work on more difficult projects as you gain experience.

Back to a boring bar holder. Get a piece of square or rectangular stock that fits in your tool post. Then drill a hole in it just large enough that your boring bar will slip into the hole. Hold the drill in the 3 jaw. This will have the boring bar centered. Then use a hacksaw to cut a slot so that when you tighten the screws on the tool post it will squeeze the holder to hold the boring bar in place.

It is very easy to spend tons on money on this hobby. There is a never ending list of things that you can buy. And even the inexpensive stuff is not cheap to buy. Have fun.
 
Buy quality once. That is my advice.
I wish I had some of the money back that I spent on the cheap crap.
Have fun!
 
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Yeah ....except maybe a headache from all the new things I have to think about! Studying away here ....
 
So...continuing my education here. I see large lots of tooling sold on Ebay. What is the feeling here about buying used tooling provided you have the capability and willingness to learn to resharpen?
 
Headrc said:
So...continuing my education here. I see large lots of tooling sold on Ebay. What is the feeling here about buying used tooling provided you have the capability and willingness to learn to resharpen?
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I'll jump in here and offer an opinion. If you assume the guy who ground the tools had a really good grasp of tip geometry and the tools were ground for a lathe with similar amounts of speed, power and rigidity to yours then these lots can be a good buy. Otherwise, I would not waste the money.

I've gotten a bunch of these tools over the years and many have very unique shapes and geometries. Some were ground by someone who knew how to use a grinder but most looked to be done free hand with little regard to how the tool actually works. Most simply had a shape that looked like it would work and little attention was paid to the tool angles beyond making sure they didn't rub. I've actually tried to use many of these tools and the vast majority will cut but not very well. Bear in mind that this "not very well" is in comparison to my own tools that cut "sort of okay". None of these tools is in use in my shop and only the rare one will be salvageable by grinding over the existing angles while still leaving enough length to assure rigidity in the tool holder.

The interesting thing is that the seller usually lists the make of the tool bit - Super Mo-Max! Rex AAA! Cobalt this or HSS that, and then charges a price that sounds fair for such high quality tool bits. The reality is that many of them will not cut well on your lathe and you have to know how to grind a good tool to even have a chance to salvage them. Otherwise you end up with a short tool that, while being made of good steel, is not a good bargain. The seller wins, you lose.

I have learned that a good tool is not good because it is made from HSS or cobalt; it is good because of its shape and tip geometry. Keep in mind that your lathe was intended to use HSS tooling. It is rigid enough, fast enough and powerful enough if the tool is ground to take advantage of what you have. Accordingly, tool grinding is a skill worthy of the time and effort it takes to learn it.

Bottom line: I'm of the opinion that you would be wiser to buy some mild steel keystock and some cheap Chinese tool bits and learn to grind a tool that will meet the needs of you and your lathe.
 
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