Band saw blade question?

I started using variable pitch blades to eliminate chatter, or vibration, whatever it might be called. The blade would start vibrating and would begin loosing teeth. Started out using Starrett and Morse blades, 14 tpi, switched to 10/14 and that cured it. Best blades I used, and still use are Lenox Diemaster as others here have posted.:))
 
I think there was more info on this site at one time. The forums have changed a bit and I don't know if some of those old posts are still around. If I remember correctly there was talk of "breaking them in" at a slower speed but the details escape me at the moment.

Went and searched in the "Other machines" forum and found a couple of quotes from Tony Wells,
Not many know this, and fewer practice it, but a new bandsaw blade should be broken in. 30% reduction in speed and feed for approximately 100 square inches cut. Then put it to it.
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and
Honestly, I don't worry about the speed too much in steel when I use my little saw, since as you know, it's limited to 3 speeds, and I run steel at the slowest only. I don't think it's worth all the trouble of a VFD or anything. Maybe a retrofit of a 4 step pulley if you really a lot of cutting. It would help to run it one step slower in the brass and aluminum materials for a bit though. It's my personal believe that is is the feed more than the speed that helps, though. What do I know? Both the DoAll and Lennox techs told me about break in. I do know it makes a huge difference on the larger blades and saws. I have documented it.
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Hope that helps,

-Ron
 
I hope it's okay if I get in on this conversation. I just bought a Powermatic model 143 vertical band saw. It came with a woodcutting blade on it. I want to put a metal cutting blade on it, of course (it has pulleys to adjust speed for metal). I will be cutting a range of thickness, but I suppose somewhere around 1/8" to almost 1/2" would be the most common. Sometimes I have some pieces that are an inch or two inches thick, maybe even three. I need a different blade for thicker material, right?

A lot of it will be mild steel, but there will be some stainless in there as well. I was looking at the sites mentioned on this thread, and I don't know what width blade to get. Looks like I should be looking at variable pitch 10-14T, though. Thanks.
 
gearhead said:
I hope it's okay if I get in on this conversation. I just bought a Powermatic model 143 vertical band saw. It came with a woodcutting blade on it. I want to put a metal cutting blade on it, of course (it has pulleys to adjust speed for metal). I will be cutting a range of thickness, but I suppose somewhere around 1/8" to almost 1/2" would be the most common. Sometimes I have some pieces that are an inch or two inches thick, maybe even three. I need a different blade for thicker material, right?

A lot of it will be mild steel, but there will be some stainless in there as well. I was looking at the sites mentioned on this thread, and I don't know what width blade to get. Looks like I should be looking at variable pitch 10-14T, though. Thanks.
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I have attached a handy chart that shows your saw. Others might find it hand in the future.

Benny
 

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I have a discontinued model Wilton (Chinese) that I bought 2 years ago without a blade for $75.00 the blade cost $45.00 it's an oddball size nobody stocks & had to order it from Grainger. It just broke a couple days ago, it's bi-metal vari pitch, hope Benny gets his welder up & running. soon
 
I like the Irwin blade from Enco. I used the blade that came with the HF saw till it broke and replaced it with the Irwin blade, made a lot of difference in how fast it cut, probably twice as fast.
 
Another vote for Enco-- now I just need to wait on a good sale--they are doing 10% right now but I am holding out for free shipping. Maybe next week.
 
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