Ball oiler

Tractor Supply, aka TSC has ISO oils and the goldenrod high pressure oil cans. I've been using the Mystic brand oils in my machines. I think the fine pointed oil cans work best. I have the Goldenrod cans with the rigid spouts off ebay for around $10 plus shipping and I have a TSC oil can and it works good if you like the flex version. Its nice sometimes to just pick one up locally. Maybe you have a TSC or other AG store near by. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/goldenrod-606-oiler-6-oz?cm_vc=IOPDP1
 
The PM-25MV manual has a little specific information about the ball oilers and how to use them. It says use a tip that seals AROUND the ball. The oil pressure that is applied pushes the ball down and lets the oil flow past.
 
Here's some pictures of a oil can I have with the pointy spout. It works very good on the ball oilers on my machines.

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Like Roy & Bob, I have been very happy using a small piece of flexible tubing on the tip of a readily available oil can (from Tractor Supply Co.) I recently bought some small engine fuel hose from an auto parts store which has been holding up very well. Previously I'd used some black rubber hose, which was attacked by the way oil, making it very soft and useless after a couple weeks. The fuel hose has been working wonderfully for several months now.

This style with the flexible spout requires two hands to use. With one hand, I hold it relatively close to the tip, putting pressure on the tubing against the ball oiler. The other I use to pump the oil. Nearly all the oil, except for a couple drops, ends up inside the ball oiler port. If all your oilers are easy to access, the non-flexible type would probably be even easier to use.

A three-foot package of fuel hose was less than $5.00, and the oil can was less than $15.00.

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The oil can I show in my previous post is no longer made if anyone was wondering about where to find one.
 
I READ SOMEWHERE LONG AGO, THAT THOSE CONICAL TIPS ON THE OIL CANS SHOWN ARE THE THING TO USE, BUT THAT THE BALL TENDS TO SEAL OFF THE HOLE THAT DELIVERS THE OIL AND THAT CAN BE SOLVED BY FILING A SHALLOW VEE WITH A TRIANGULAR FILE ACROSS THE TIP, TO ALLOW OIL TO FLOW MORE EASILYPAST THE BALL. I HAVE NEVER TRIED IT, AND PERSONALLY DETEST BALL OILERS FOR THE MOST PART, AND WOULD REPLACE THEM WITH GITS STYLE HINGED TOP OILERS.
 
I use a small allen wrench to push on the ball, and use the spout of the oil can to drip a drop of oil on the wrench, then I watch teh oil seep into the recess.
 
Choosing oils, is not as simple as saying ISO32 is not on the shelf, so I can grab an SAE 10. They may have similar viscositys, but that is where the similarities part ways.

Think about it, an engine oil (you want the lubrication, but also want it to easily scrape off the cylinder walls. A way oil, you want it to stick to the ways, and not attract metal particles, and dust. Newer engine oils, do not have the extreme pressure additives that older non roller cam lifter engines need. So even an SAE 10W30, is not the same as another SAE10W30. You need to look at the SE, SF, ect grade designation.

Different worlds, need different oils. You have a big investment in your machines, why cut corners on maintenance?

A good reading.
http://www.duboischemicals.com/metalworking/Lubes Guide.pdf
 
benmychree said:
I READ SOMEWHERE LONG AGO, THAT THOSE CONICAL TIPS ON THE OIL CANS SHOWN ARE THE THING TO USE, BUT THAT THE BALL TENDS TO SEAL OFF THE HOLE THAT DELIVERS THE OIL AND THAT CAN BE SOLVED BY FILING A SHALLOW VEE WITH A TRIANGULAR FILE ACROSS THE TIP, TO ALLOW OIL TO FLOW MORE EASILYPAST THE BALL. I HAVE NEVER TRIED IT, AND PERSONALLY DETEST BALL OILERS FOR THE MOST PART, AND WOULD REPLACE THEM WITH GITS STYLE HINGED TOP OILERS.
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I think that would make it worse. You need a good seal between the tip and the body of the oiler so that the oil can unseat the ball.
 
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