Baldor Grinder off Ebay- A Few Questions please....

Looks like "ya goter done".

That will be a nice addition to your shop once you get it hooked to a VFD.

Walter
 
starlight_tools link=topic=1622.msg9744#msg9744 date=1302502374 said:
Looks like "ya goter done".

That will be a nice addition to your shop once you get it hooked to a VFD.

Walter

Nope, that is from the site of the guy who refurbed his: http://prowave.blogspot.com/2007/05/baldor-500-grinder.html

But stand by when I try it Walter, I'm probably going to have to send it to you to fix it right.

I see from the pics that he used Nachi bearings (2), and a special 2-jaw bearing puller (which I don't have).

Is there anything else important I need to know to get this done? Any pitfalls?

Best,

Nelson
 
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Nelson

I usually use a three jaw puller, it tends to be a bit safer.

It comes down to what pullers do you actually have?

Do you have a press and what type of press do you have?

Pitfalls.

Those windings are exposed when you take off the end bells. They must not get damaged in any way. Nicks, drops, screw driver pry marks all will turn the windings into scrap metal.

There is not a lot of room between the bearings and the bearing lock plates, so a thin jaw on the puller may be necessary.

Careful when using a bearing puller as the screw portion is twisting against the end of the shaft and it can damage the shaft. I either put a disc under the puller screw, or try to turn the outside frame around the screw so the screw stays put.

Bearings, there are lots of brands of bearings many of decent quality, so Nachi is fine, but so are many others. I would use double sealed bearings which will be "2RS" or "V V" Avoid open or "ZZ' shielded bearings

Walter
 
Walter:

I am going to research "bearing pullers" on both Google and Ebay and see what comes up.

All I have now is a cheapo HF set of 3 jaw gear pullers, a 12T floor press from HF and a 1T arbor press from HF.

I know how stupid it is to attempt something like this without the correct tools.

[video=youtube;4qGS8AfSpZE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qGS8AfSpZE[/video]

[video=youtube;I6y7tSPvmf8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6y7tSPvmf8&feature=related[/video]

[video=youtube;QhBADmrMufs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhBADmrMufs&feature=related[/video]

[video=youtube;Jc8U1dWuSwo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jc8U1dWuSwo[/video]

What do I need MINIMALLY to be able to get this done- besides some common sense ;D

Thanks,

Nelson
 
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OK Nelson, here goes.

Homemade bearing puller, some great ideas, but not exactly what you are doing.

Motor Bearing Mounting, that is a strong back and a Bearing seperator. This system works really well for pulling bearings. Heater rarely used to put bearings back on.

Simatool, that is a really neat system, bearings removed are scrap as it can damage the inner race, but when trying to get at blind bearings like that would be the cats meow.

electricneutron This is a more common style of puller, it can be two or three arms and some have an extra arm mount so they can be either two or three. Main thing with this style of puller is that the arms must be long enough to get behind the bearing. My preference when operating this style of puller is hold the bolt stationary with the wrench on the shaft and to rotate the arms around with the outer race of the bearing. This does less damage to the centre hole and the shaft of the motor.

Also they drove the new bearing on with a roughly cut chunk of pipe and a sledge hammer, this can impact the bearing badly. it is preferable to press the bearing on rather than impact drive it.

Now as for your situation.

1 ton Arbour Press. These are great for jewelers, watch makers and fabric artists for setting very small stuff. Normally the throat size is not big enough to do anything serious with these.

3 Jaw Gear puller, now that may work for you, again the big question is how long are the arms and will it reach.

12 Ton Hydraulic Press. This will work great for what you need as far as removing bearings. You will need a bearing seperator, similar to what was shown in the Motor Bearing Mounting video clip, it needs to be large enogh to straddle the table supports on the press, or you will need a set of plates to rest it on. This method does the least damage to the shaft and the bearings as it is a none impact method.


I have bearing seperators 3", 6" and 8" The 8" set lives almost permanantly on my 5 Ton Arbour Press. The 3 and 6 will get used on top of the 8 when required.

I have four 6" x 12" x 1" plates that have a vee notch cut in them.

I have all sorts of sleeves that are turned to ID and OD of major bearings. They hang in the cabinet above the Arbour Press.

Walter
 
Walter,

Please forgive my stupidity. The 12T HF press would press down on the shaft to remove the bearing which is held by the separator, no? Thus there is contact, though the pommel of the press is not pointed, so it is doubtful damage would occur.

The gear pullers I have are probably too thick and clumsy for removing bearings. I looked some up on Amazon, and this is what they came up with:

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5740-P...3?ie=UTF8&qid=1302707447&sr=8-3-fkmr1

and this Neiko bearing puller/separator set- looks like what I would need:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Profess...ive&ie=UTF8&qid=1302707504&sr=1-4

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4518-Stin...ive&ie=UTF8&qid=1302707568&sr=1-5

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5704-B...ive&ie=UTF8&qid=1302707568&sr=1-6

Will one of these fit the bill for removing the bearings cleanly with NO damage, and letting me press some new ones back on?

Thanks,

Nelson
 
Texton Pilot bearing puller

That is a handy puller, I have one of those but it is only really used for pulling bearings out of blind holes where we can not get to the back of the bearing to push it out.

Either the Neiko or the OTC 4518 Set would be the best quality of the seperator puller sets and would serve you well.

The Texton 5704 looks like a set I used to have and I found the metal was poor quality, the seperator chipped and cracked at the jaws.

I am attaching the drawing of my plates and seperator if you want to attempt to make your own.

Now to press off the bearings, the rotor will hang between the table rails for the press, the seperator will be slid together under the bearing and the bearing will be on top of the seperator. Press down on the end of the shaft to remove the bearing.

To reinstall the bearing, plase the bearing on the plates, slide the shaft through and press on the other end of the shaft until the bearing is fully seated.

NB: make sure that everything is sitting square and that you are not pressing at an angle. I will start my press, release pressure then press again, this allows the shaft and bearing to equalize. If you press it off kilter, with 12 Tons, it will press on, but it will damage things in the process.

The big thing Nelson, is do the bearings on this grinder need replacing? Are they rough, and scratchy or what? You may find that they will run just fine without changing them.

Walter

Bearing-Seperator-1.jpg Bearing-Seperator-2.jpg Vee-plates-1.jpg
 
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starlight_tools link=topic=1622.msg10160#msg10160 date=1302712857 said:
Either the Neiko or the OTC 4518 Set would be the best quality of the seperator puller sets and would serve you well.

The big thing Nelson, is do the bearings on this grinder need replacing? Are they rough, and scratchy or what? You may find that they will run just fine without changing them.

Walter

Walter,

Many thanks for this- I am not sure that they need replacing BUT, in the event they do, or I ever need to replace some bearings, it would be good to have the right tools. So I will add the Neiko or OTC set to my purchase list when I can afford it.
Frankly, because the seller PAINTED the grinder before selling it, I would be VERY surprised if it ran or if the bearings weren't shot. I don't trust painted stuff!

The list is VERY long, but I need to have a grinder ready to go, so maybe I will shift bearing pullers up a bit.

Sounds like a good topic for another of my hair-brained questions- what equipment/tools is on your wish list? ;)
I actually DO have such a list. One for machinist stuff, and one for clock stuff, that I need!

Thanks again!

Nelson
 
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