Back Gear Disengaging On It's Own

This may help explain what I have...

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The part is marked with 4 10 245 L as you see in the photo. The other bracket is marked similar, 4 10 245 R. Hope that adds something to identify what model lathe uses that set of parts.


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OK, I know now that what I bought was not Craftsman, it’s for an Atlas 10” lathe....

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Anyone need a Back Gear Assy for an Atlas 10” lathe? Sorry I led y’all down my rabbit hole....


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OK. But that replacement one shown in your photo above is the 10-245L for the 10". The one on your machine is L4-245L for the 12". And I thought that the broken one on your machine was 10-245R, which is apparently the same on the 10" and 12". ???

I called Clausing this afternoon and after catching up on Houston's weather and confirming that they didn't show to have any of the 10-245R's in stock, got him to send me the drawing for 10-245R and 10-245L. And I completely forgot to ask for L4-245L. But as I said, 10-245R is the one that sets the movement of the back gears as it has the stops.

Anyway, the original drawings that I got copies of date originally from 1935. Last revision was in 1949.
 
Hold on, I am still confused here. The Craftsman 12” lathe PL calls out L4-245L and L4-245R. The Atlas 10” PL has the 10-245L and 10-245R parts. Atlas 10” lathe has a totally different tensioner than used on the Craftsman 12”, so I understand why the parts are different. All that set aside, your concerns are how the eccentric moves the back gears move to engage and disengage, right? Maybe someone else can step up here and give us more data on how their eccentric moves. Anyone???


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Yes, you are correct, they both have the 10-245R bracket ( I was mistaken, Craftsman PL does call out the same part as in the Atlas PL; sorry for my confusion!).


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My apologies, but my previous post above (#13) refers to your #10 and was being written (with several interruptions) while you were writing #11 and #12. And unfortunately, if there is any way in which to change the post order, I don't know it. But if I don't forget and if the local weather problems allow (mainly that both of my available ISP's don't go down again) I will call Tom at Clausing again tomorrow and try to get the drawings on L4-245L and the early and later 3/8" bed 12" headstocks. I feel certain that we can make what you now have work. But it is going to require some simple mill work.
 
I thought that you had logged off. My #16 was written while you were writing #14 and #15. But #15 corrected the error in #14. And I thought that there was something other than maybe just thickness wrong with your original 10-245R instead of your original L4-245L. Did I have that wrong?

This will be my last post in this thread tonight.
 
Update: I removed the left eccentric and shaved a few thousands off the end of it, problem solved. It appears that there just wasn't enough clearance between the two eccentrics and the eccentric shaft, and the backgear's rotation (which opposes engagement) was causing the gears to disengage by rubbing against the eccentrics.

When in backgear, the lathe is extremely noisy - the spindle pulley tends to rub against the bull gear and makes a racket. I've set some clearance between them, but it doesn't help - any fixes?
 
Is there any possibility that the pulley is striking the end of the direct drive pin? The pulley rubbing against the gear shouldn't make any significant noise. Is the noise generated either once or twice per revolution?
 
Is there any possibility that the pulley is striking the end of the direct drive pin? The pulley rubbing against the gear shouldn't make any significant noise. Is the noise generated either once or twice per revolution?
Sorry, I let this one get by me.

The pulley doesn't seem to be striking the drive pin. The noise is once per rev. Not sure how to mitigate this with the pulley floating.
 
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