B&S 2B Surface Grinder Restoration Logs

You can find those bearings on e. Bay if you do a little digging. I found a set of 7207's for my mill. They were about $160.
Joe
 
RetiredRich said:
Spindle Parts

In order for me to be able to discuss this topic "semi intelligently" (not sure how to say this), here's a picture of the parts of the spindle. I'll use this as a reference when I don't know the names of the parts.

View attachment 387885
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The spindle on my 1946 B&S 2L surface grinder is totally different from the ball bearing spindle your (and most other) surface grinders have. Mine has a shaft with a very slight taper on it of considerably large diameter, and a carefully matched housing. The special light oil required is the only thing that keeps them apart from each other aside from shimming the end play (IIRC, many years ago...) The setup and operation of it is done very carefully per the manual, and then it works incredibly well, very easy to get a beautiful finish on the work. I was skeptical at first, but it works quite well after 75 years...
 
RetiredRich said:
Good advice. I will be doing a lot more research before I get any bearings. I did look into Timken bearings just to get a sense of cost. I came across one of their reference manual which has an enormous amount of good information. Timken only because that's what came up when I was searching those numbers at a local web store. Local as a 2hr drive.

The wheel spindle does not look at all like the spindle in the B&S 2B parts book. I don't see any markings on the Spindle Bearing Sleeve. It does look like the original with a threaded hole for the oiler and optional one on the opposite side. I read somewhere that the oiler could be switched side.
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In your post #1, I thought that the picture of the end of the spindle was the grinding wheel hub end. From seeing your parts breakdown, maybe that's actually the motor coupling end??? Regardless, I would just measure the taper and lengths where the hubs mount and check whether you have right or left hand threads on the end of the shaft. You'll have to get either a right or left hand hub depending on the direction of spindle rotation.

There's good information here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/brown&sharpeno2grinder/

Also, check out vintagemachinery.org Go to Publication Reprints and see what manuals he might have there.

The oiler on my Pope spindle is on top of the housing and it is a drip type. It uses ball bearings, not a bronze split bearing.

Precision grinding spindles like these are really fussy to work on and assemble correctly. Just for a point of reference, you might want to look at prices for a replacement spindle cartridge, like my Pope. If you can find a good used one it might be another option for you.

Sopko http://www.wmsopko.com/ is the number one maker of grinding wheel hubs. They are NOT cheap. You mount a wheel on a hub and leave the wheel mounted typically. A different hub for each grinding wheel and they are mated until the grinding wheel is discarded.

There are a lot of people here on this site with grinders that can help. Just ask.

Ted
 
Here's an example (only an example, not a recommendation) of a replacement cartridge like I'm referring to. It's the first one that popped up in eBay.

www.ebay.com

Blohm HFS-9V Surface Grinder Grinding Spindle Gear Rim 98 Type 55 | eBay

The threads are 1 1/4" the fat part of the nose is 2 1/4" the body is 4.72" and the rear spindle is 1.9". In good working condition, but has scratches, signs of use and surface marks.
www.ebay.com

My B&S was originally a bronze split bushing spindle probably similar to Bob's. The machine was totally rebuilt and the flat belt in the cabinet motor was removed as well as the original spindle and drive system. It was replaced with a Pope cartridge spindle with an in-line motor. Direct drive, no coupling. The grinding spindle shaft was long and had the motor armature on the opposite end. I cut this off and fitted it with a LoveJoy coupling.

Ted
 
Technical Ted said:
In your post #1, I thought that the picture of the end of the spindle was the grinding wheel hub end. From seeing your parts breakdown, maybe that's actually the motor coupling end??? Regardless, I would just measure the taper and lengths where the hubs mount and check whether you have right or left hand threads on the end of the shaft. You'll have to get either a right or left hand hub depending on the direction of spindle rotation.

There's good information here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/brown&sharpeno2grinder/

Also, check out vintagemachinery.org Go to Publication Reprints and see what manuals he might have there.

The oiler on my Pope spindle is on top of the housing and it is a drip type. It uses ball bearings, not a bronze split bearing.

Precision grinding spindles like these are really fussy to work on and assemble correctly. Just for a point of reference, you might want to look at prices for a replacement spindle cartridge, like my Pope. If you can find a good used one it might be another option for you.

Sopko http://www.wmsopko.com/ is the number one maker of grinding wheel hubs. They are NOT cheap. You mount a wheel on a hub and leave the wheel mounted typically. A different hub for each grinding wheel and they are mated until the grinding wheel is discarded.

There are a lot of people here on this site with grinders that can help. Just ask.

Ted
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Thanks Ted. I'll have to do some follow up on your comments.
 
Quick Update.

I've been searching ebay (first for me) and I certainly found a lot of options, either complete spindle replacement or changing bearings only. I have much work to do before I can make a reasonable choice. Now that I have a better idea of what is in the spindle sleeve, I may just put all back together after I've cleaned to see in spin. (btw, I noticed that I spelled sleeve with an "a" in my reference picture, it drives me crazy).

As I mentioned before, there was some in and out play on the axial axis. The bearing had been installed in tandem. I noticed on the outer race of the SDK bearings the writing "support here". I'm wondering if this means that the bearings should be installed face to face or back to back. When I put them face to face, the play is removed. Maybe they were installed wrong. Something to investigate further.

None of the races have been ground. The spacer between the bearings is probably used for preloading the bearings.

I'm reading many threads that are specific to bearings and already found answers to my questions. I may create a new thread when I have questions on bearings.

I have been playing with ultrasonic transducers to make my own cleaning ultrasonic cleaner. This will be very useful for cleaning the parts.

If it was not for this Covid, I would have access to a laboratory with those clean chambers.

Strangely enough, the need for a clean room (as best I can anyway) overlaps my obsession for building a large telescope.

I'm only 3 months in my retirement so I have, hopefully, another 30 years to learn and progress.
 
Yes, I assume the spacer between the bearings is for preload. Typically, these precision bearings have preload. Face to face or back to back? That depends on the design. See this link. There is a lot of information on-line beside just this:


Like I said, the correct assembly of these spindles is critical, with the correct preload and lubrication. That's why, sometimes, it's best to buy a whole assembly, as long as you can trust it is in good condition and will fit your application!

You are taking the right path by doing research. Sure, if the bearings feel nice and smooth when you rotate them by hand I would put things back together and try it. What do you have to lose? But, if you feel any roughness at all, it's mostly probably not going to end well...

Ted
 
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