It was the valve. They seemed to corrode and stop working. The electric one has been in place for many years and for whatever reason has not suffered from the same problem. The compressor is electric so power was not a problem and the laundry tub was right next to the compressor so running the drain into the plumbing drain also worked out well.
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Auto tank drain
- Thread starter AGCB97
- Start date
It was the valve. They seemed to corrode and stop working. The electric one has been in place for many years and for whatever reason has not suffered from the same problem. The compressor is electric so power was not a problem and the laundry tub was right next to the compressor so running the drain into the plumbing drain also worked out well.
I tried the HF one at 150 PSI and it failed. The seals blew out. very poor design.
Roy
A couple months ago I replaced a huge and ancient shop compressor (left by the previous owner) with a 60 gallon Husky. I'd seen a thread that mentioned using an Omron timer to kill power if the compressor ran overtime. This did not seem necessary for my installation, but I did look into timers. Decided to cobble up an auto drain. The attached schematic shows how I did it. The ball valve that opens the drain is a "special" one I found on Amazon. It runs off DC and (somehow) stores enough juice to re-close after power is turned off. Here's a link to it:
Admittedly, the ball valve is a potential failure point. If it fails to close, the compressor won't shut off. But so far (6-9 months?), it's worked reliably. The valve body and ball are stainless and the ball seat is teflon.
Amazon.com: Motorized Ball Valve- 1/4" Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid … (1/4", Steel): Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Motorized Ball Valve- 1/4" Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid … (1/4", Steel): Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
Admittedly, the ball valve is a potential failure point. If it fails to close, the compressor won't shut off. But so far (6-9 months?), it's worked reliably. The valve body and ball are stainless and the ball seat is teflon.
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Hi Aaron,
How has the knock-off valve held up?
I have a new compressor coming Monday and want it to last.....safely.
Any feedback is appreciated.
-brino
I have been thinking of installing the Tsunami Moisture Minder
www.lubeminder.com
Moisture Minder Pneumatic Drain Valve | Tsunami Compressed Air Solutions | Suburban Manufacturing
Our air-operated condensate drain requires no electricity or additional wiring. Featuring stainless steel, a unique mounting system, Teflon® and Viton® seals, and a standard valve that operates without an air system pressure drop.
www.lubeminder.com
Brino
It seems to not have enough storage capacity between runs and I have to manually empty it occasionally especially in humid summer weather. I suggest you look at something else. I'm thinking something on a timer.
Aaron
The one Larry4406 posted looks like a high class (and dollar) version of the truck drain
It seems to not have enough storage capacity between runs and I have to manually empty it occasionally especially in humid summer weather. I suggest you look at something else. I'm thinking something on a timer.
Aaron
The one Larry4406 posted looks like a high class (and dollar) version of the truck drain
Except, for me, it's the tank I'm worried about and want to drain.....and my tank is on the floor.
.....and for me "foolproof" would have to be "automatic".
-brino