Atlas vs the others

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macher

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i have started looking for a small bench lathe for my garage shop. I am looking for a 10 or 12 inch machine. The comments I see on some web sites don't hold the Atlas in very high esteem. Based on what I see an Atlas is not much good for anything. Is this a "MAC vs. PC" type of argument or is there some basis to what I have read. We had South Bend, Logan and Sheldon in our college shop. The South Bend and Logan worked good, but we always seemed to have problems with the Sheldon.

I will primarily be making parts for my antique woodworking tools, wood and metal screws, and some other small parts for basket handles.
 
macher said:
I will primarily be making parts for my antique woodworking tools, wood and metal screws, and some other small parts for basket handles.
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I had an Atlas for 25 years and it's fine for making small part like you are talking about. I have used it for metal as well as wood. I have threaded a lot of rifle barrels as well as
made some steam engines.

It is true that the Atlas is at the bottom end of the 10"-12" market, but it was meant as a economical lathe sold by Sears and not for a production environment.

That's my 2 cents anyway.
 
I have seen and heard all the arguments on Atlas. Most are biased to say the least. Yes they have their limitations, the biggest of which is the operator himself and what he believes the lathe can do. Don't sell it short, go for it, the Atlas will serve you well for what you wirh to do.

"Billy G" :))
 
the most serious criticisms i have heard about some atlas lathes seem to regard the back gears / some other gears in the gear train being made of zamak (sp?) and breaking easily. there are also later atlas branded lathes which i believe were made by clausing and seem to be of a higher caliber. i think they also possibly didnt have the highest quality spindle bearings, and the ways are often plain ways vs the prismatic ways you see on some higher end lathes. still probably better than most any of the chinese stuff you'll find new, and probably cheaper for a 10 or 12 in swing model. i second the line about the operator being the most important component. one big point in the favor of the atlas lathes is that there seem to be a lot of cheap parts out there for them. i have a southbend 9 and it seems like parts are very expensive for them. hope that helps.
 
Have to agree with what has been said so far, if you go for a 10" the QCGB is essential, as the lead screw reversing box on the change geared models can be problematic.

The 10" ones are cheap enough to buy in good condition, light enough to move easily, but I have found they need to be very rigidly mounted for best results (I am waiting for my new concrete base to cure as I write) and they look so nice!

As to the Zamak, look up the properties compared to cast iron, it isn't as puny as some would have us believe, chip damage can bad sometimes though.

Bernard
 
I remember seeing these lathes in many a service shop back in the 60s and 70s. As most do not need a 1440 lathe, these smaller but very useful lathes were everywhere, that is why complete lathes and parts are so common today on the used market. Same with Southbend, they are both more common then most, though SBs are more expensive!

I used my Atlas for everything that I needed to do. I only broke the two gears inside the traversing case, but I think that they were damaged earlier as the replacements lasted the next 15 plus years. Most issues with broken parts etc are related to the operator.
Pierre
 
I figure I'd chime in as an opposing view - as a former Atlas owner. It's long since sold and I've never missed it - not even once.

If you're used to South Bends and Logans you'll likely be unhappy with the Atlas. It's a very light duty machine with a lot of weaknesses. Mainly rigidity. Parting off can be problematic with the Atlas. Also, the change gears and half nut lever trunions are Zamak. They break easily. Yes Zamak has many properties similar to cast iron, including its poor performance with regard to operating in tension.

Also, the lack of zero set dials and the VERY small dial markings are a an issue too. There are retrofit kits to get around this however.

Stick with somehting that has more beef and V-ways and you'll be better off in the long run. Mind you, the Atlas does have capability, especially if you're a seasoned machinist, but you'd do better spending a few extra bucks (if possible) to get a SB (especially the "heavy" models), Logan, Clausing, etc.

BTW, don't even consider an Atlas w/o a quick change gearbox. I never single point threaded for many years knowing I'd have to fight with the gears...

John
 
+1 on jgedde's comments.
I've had several 10" Atlas lathes, don't have any of them now. I do have a Southbend 9" and a Enco 10", both are keepers.
Logan, South Bend would be my first choice in older US-made.
The Encos and Jet's made in the 1980s are plentiful and were taiwan-sourced, not China. Apparently capitalism makes a difference.

The smaller Atlas 618 is a different matter. In that scale, the drawbacks - zamak and flat ways - are less of an issue.
 
Dranreb said:
As to the Zamak, look up the properties compared to cast iron, it isn't as puny as some would have us believe, chip damage can bad sometimes though. Bernard
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I agree. I have had several Atlas lathes and the only problem with Zamak was caused by people. Lack of lube, crashing, and even I damaged one by dropping it.
 
Sure, but try to find an Atlas without a cracked rack gear casting.
Or one of the early ones with the reversing box on the leadscrew, made entirely of zamak. Whole assemblies are precious, parts are scarce.
And I've thrown away Zamak gears that were worn to sharp points. Doesn't happen with iron gears.
Zamak has a purpose, and that is fast, low-cost production.
 
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