Atlas Pick-O-Matic Drive Gear 10-1213

[Blue]

Excellent. I am indeed missing that piece as well. The plan was to make one of those out of steel instead of printed plastic. This piece does not have involute teeth, but your measurements will make it a lot easier to fab. I have just been passively mulling it over, thinking I should take some measurements. The 1/8" thickness may be just enough prompt to get me moving forward on this piece. I will have a few extra 10-24 knurled knobs soon and may use one of those for this piece. 1/8" is plenty thick for ~3 threads to hold it, and it will not go anywhere with a bit of locktite, a bit 'o solder or a tack weld.

Waiting to print more gears until I get some more appropriate resin for use in gears. The most recent pieces are not quite right, but the 52 tooth gear I printed fit fine on the drive arbor. Probably good that I need to wait for resin. Too much non-lathe stuff going on, and I am slowly cleaning up the 3-Jaw chuck. (See other thread).

 

[Blue]

Just a quick update on this. I have been sidetracked by other priorities and am just about done refurbishing the tailstock as a distraction, so this has been a little bit behind. Besides, it took a really long time for the resin to come in. The new gears were just printed over the last couple of days.

The "better" resin finally arrived and the gears printed. However, this "better" resin does not print as well or as consistently as the prior black resin. While it may be more durable, the features are far less "crisp" and I am finding that I must file them at lot just to fit on the arbors. But, if they hold up, the extra effort will be worth it.

I did make the retaining piece out of stainless. I made it out of 1/8" stock and found that I needed to really thin it down to fit into the arbor slots, but now it fits rather well, so adding the knob will be next.

Quick photo of this section. I plan to refurbish the saddle and apron before moving into the pick-o-matic or drive gears. I need to replace the drive belt, so those need to come out anyway. While it is out, a nice de-oiling/cleaning, wire brushing and some fresh paint are in its future.

 

[Blue]

Latest update - I had to file the outer gear's inner teeth to fit and hand drill/ream the center of the inner gear to get these to proper size. I could press in a couple of bushings into the inner gear and install a spring steel retainer. I figured this would definitely be best to have a steel arbor, so a copy of the arbor was made. Fortunately, I waited to make the arbor because this printed resin was ~.030 too long, so it was easy enough to adapt before cutting chips.

So far, it is looking good. The steel knurled knob is from McMaster (<$10) to keep in the "no tools" spirit for the change gears.

Is there any reason why the carriage bolt head needs to have a couple of sides machined off, except perhaps that it makes it easier to remove without moving the banjo to a few specific spots? I left my bolt whole for now.

And installed on the banjo:

Thanks again to Mike for the pictures and dimensions to make this possible!

 

[shadetreedad]

Blue
You're welcome, & that all looks wonderful!
Maybe my carriage bolt had a “big head”.
If those fit down in the slot without interference, then you should be good to go.
You'll be making chips in no time!
Mike

 

[Steve Bergeron]

Blue,
That in/out gear should work perfectly!
Also, I didn’t see in your pictures a Gear Link with Knob (10-1232) and thought you may want to print one of those as well (see attached). With your skillset that should be pretty easy.
Mike

Gear Link with Knob (10-1232)

I built one of these this week out of Aluminum. I noticed the other fellow who made one used Stainless Steel. What was the original one made out of?

Your drawings were perfect and I wanted to thank you.

Steve

 

[shadetreedad]

Steve
Glad to hear the pictures were able to help you make a replacement . The original is steel. I’m guessing it was stamped into shape. Doesn’t take much to hold the gears on.
Mike.