Atlas Mill M1-61 drawings

[Silverbullet]

There is a guy who makes accessories for the atlas at mymachineshop.net who sells one for 199.00 but since you have a machine and a couple threads up there is a drawing whay not make one from medium or low carbons steel stock. I also bought a arbor and draw in bar from mymachineshop.net fair prices.
Aluminum might work but the attachment points might tend to wear in. Maybe T3 or T4 might work.

I figured on using thin brass washers on the top so it wouldn't drag , I think ill try it , got nothing to lose but time and a piece of aluminum . I plan on machining about a thirty degree angle an inch in on the top end , front and back may be enough to give it the boss effect. Try to make it look like it belongs with the mill.

 

[Airpirate]

That ought to work fine. Shoot me a photo when you're done and let me know how it works.

 

[wa5cab]

I would use steel. Aluminum, regardless of the alloy or the temper, is just too easy to damage.

 

[Airpirate]

I would use steel. Aluminum, regardless of the alloy or the temper, is just too easy to damage.

Do you think low carbon steel would be adequate for the job?

 

[Silverbullet]

I would use steel. Aluminum, regardless of the alloy or the temper, is just too easy to damage.

I wouldn't use aluminum in a car engine either , but millions are running every day. Not much damage can be done to a part that only rides up and down with no working pressure. Any gulling that could happen would be protected by the brass thrust washers on the overarm support. Anyway if I can get the metal and my spine surgery over it won't be soon that's for sure. I'm on a no spending freeze for now , only the best deal will get consideration.

 

[wa5cab]

Carbon steel would be fine. And easier to get in the correct starting size than cast iron. The reason that Atlas used cast iron is because it was a cast part.

My fifth Land Rover had an aluminum block 4.0 litre Petrol V8. After 17 years, it was still running OK. But I didn't take it apart several times a month, either.

 

[Airpirate]

Carbon steel would be fine. And easier to get in the correct starting size than cast iron. The reason that Atlas used cast iron is because it was a cast part.

My fifth Land Rover had an aluminum block 4.0 litre Petrol V8. After 17 years, it was still running OK. But I didn't take it apart several times a month, either.

Thanks, I will go that direction.

 

[wa5cab]

Drawings for the M1-66 Cross Slide Screw and M1-67 Bearing were just uploaded. These are two of the four parts required in order to install the M1-61 Arbor Support Bar on a B model or earlier. Drawing for M1-60 and reverse engineered drawing for M1-61 were already in DOWNLOADS.

 

[wa5cab]

In case anyone missed it, installing the M1-61 Arbor Support bar on a B or earlier model requires three additional parts. M1-60 Arbor Support in place of M1-8. M1-66 Cross Slide Screw in place of M1-36. And M1-67 Bearing in place of M1-33.

 

[Gargoyle-169]

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Aluminum might work but the attachment points might tend to wear in. Maybe T3 or T4 might work.

Any aluminum would work for the mechanical lever arm function of the part. The anchor/attachment points would be made durable with washers and a sleeve around each bolt. Visit the small parts bins at your local big box hardware store for same. Cheers.