Atlas mill home at last

[robert1352]

Ok so no luck with the overnight soak,the arbor is still in there but good!!The idea of taking the whole head off and just saking everything is starting to sound more like the next step to me unless anyone has anymore suggestions. Thanks all.

 

[kd4gij]

I would take the cutter and spacers off the spindle. Get a pice of pipe that fits over the spindle cut to lingth a large washer and use the nut to jack it out. Hope that makes scence

 

[robert1352]

So I let the transmisson fluidl soak in overnight,still not budging. Is the nut on the end of the arbor a right hand nut or a left hand? The reason I ask is because I have tried everything to get that off as well and its not going anywhere. Below are pictures of the arbor and the various parts laid out,enjoy!!

 

[kd4gij]

I never have had one but it should be right hand thread. should be able to tell by the threads showing. look at the start of the threads.

 

[robert1352]

Well I finally did manage to get the nut holding the spacers and cutter off. Right now ,I have some ice wraped around the arbor. If that doesnt work I might give the dry ice idea a try.

 

[Uncle Buck]

OK, Try this. Right behind the collar of the arbor, the part of the arbor that is the larger diameter of the shaft that you see on the left side of your picture. Figure out a way to hold the threaded part of the spindle captive, that is the threaded portion to the left of that larger diameter collar, even if it is nothing more than having another guy hold that threaded part of the spindle captive. Then take a hammer (deadblow would be best, or lead or brass hammer) then strike the back side of that larger diameter collar. This would be striking from the threaded side of the spindle. Hopefully, the arbor will then break free of the spindle. I might even take a few VERY CAREFUL WACKS on the outside of the collar to see if that might help break it free as well if stiking the back side alone does not do the job.

Below your picture is an image of a new arbor to help figure out what I am trying to say if my description alone does not seem clear. The collar I am speaking of is seen on the right hand side of the second image right in front of the MT. If you have access to the right sized bearing splitter you might also try that as well between the end of the threads and the back side of the arbor collar. Be careful and make sure not to bugger up the end of your spindle threads though. I am virtually positive a bearing splitter will do what you want if there is enough room for you to get the knife edges of the splitter beween the end of the spindle and the back side of that arbor collar.

BTW: When the time comes that you finally get that mess apart and you want to replace the old spindle bearings, you DO NOT have to buy those from Clausing or Sears. I found that my bearings were standard sizes and I was able to source them fairly cheap from my local bearing house. All I did was take my old bearings in and they measured and matched them. I bought the best quality name brand bearings I could and they didn't cost too much. I am sure they were much cheaper than if I had sourced those through Clausing.

 

[robert1352]

Thanks Uncle buck I think im going to give your idea a try. By the way I think that coolent pump made it to its destination today.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Super on the pump. I will get square with you for the shipping and the pump. I have not had a chance to do anything with the guards yet. I am all but positive the bearing separator idea will work. If you need to you might rent one if you or a buddy do not have one of sufficient size. I suppose you could buy a cheapie HF one that might work as well. I have several, but they are costly new. I would offer to send mine to you but the shipping alone would likely rent one if need be. I have my fingers crossed for you bud!

 

[robert1352]

You are right Uncle buck I think I can rent one from autozone. Can anyone suggest a good degresaser,I have been using purple power with pretty good results, just wondering if there is something better.I will try to get some more picuters up this weekend Thanks Robert.

 

[Uncle Buck]

When you get the splitter fitted where you need it and begin drawing the pressure up on the nuts/bolts of the splitter (which will cause the splitter to tighten around the assembly) you might stop midway and give that collar I keep speaking of a few raps around it's circumference. Sometimes the combination of the splitter applying force to separate the parts and the shock of the hammer blow working in combination will be enough to cause the two parts to pop apart. The tighter you go with the splitter the more frequently I would stop and give a few raps. I would also try to work some silicone or something like that into that joint as well.

Make sure the drawbar has been removed too because you want to know that is in no way holding you up.