Atlas MFC Knee Gears

I got a cheap thrust bearing and shimmed it to what I was told was the thickness of an original bearing by someone that had one apart. I think it is wider than the original but it doesn't seem to matter. The gears actually turn fairly well with a bearing in place instead the old shims it had. So for now I'll hold off on buying gears.

Planning on getting some aw32 hydraulic fluid to lube most of the machine. It's basically what the manual calls for as far as I can tell. An ISO 32 10 weight oil.

Was wondering what kind of graphite grease is good for the gears? There's some moly-graph grease on Amazon. Would that be alright? Thanks.

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GR,

Around 1960 or so, Atlas changed the recommendation for the oil used most places on the machines to SAE 20 (ISO 68). For several years, SAE 20 wasn't generally available but for maybe the past year it has been available again by the gallon from Tractor Supply. Until then, I had used Mobil Heavy Medium Circulating Oil (ISO 68) everywhere except on the ways where I have been using a way oil (more tacky) but I bought it with several sets of the felts and don't know who made it.

On the grease, I would recommend a graphite bearing high temperature rated grease because many common greases tend to liquify at temperatures not much above 120 F and will sling off too easily.
 
Interesting. I hadn't read about the change. So you're using the store brand 20 weight non-detergent motor oil? I can get some of that. Thanks again!
 
I forget exactly what edition of the MOLO it changed in but it was around 1960. And yes, that's what I have always used.
 
I got some open gear grease and the 20 weight oil. Been doing some reassembly. Something I noticed is the lead screw seems too long? Someone had added a thick bushing on the left to shore it up, but one on ebay has this bit on the right side? The manual doesn't seem to have anything this wide shown? Anyone know what is correct?

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I don't have an explanation as to why the lead screw seems too long. But I do note that between the original M1 and MF and the "C" models, the cross-feed screw, screw extension, left plate and right plate have been revised one, one, two and three times respectively. It could be that someone replaced one of more of the parts with a different revision. But we don't have the drawings on the four parts, so no way to tell,
 
I drilled out the spacer that was on the left side to 1/2 in and moved it to the right. With the dial on the left already it stuck out too much in my opinion. I also had to modify a nut to fit the left side. There was none on when I got it. Put it on a bolt and spun it in the drill press while grinding it round. Just some parts out of the junk bin. It sticks out the end but it gets the job done. I don't have a lathe to make a little one like the original easily. Handle was also broken when I got it but I'll live with it. So that's the table back on and adjusted to the best of my current abilities. A few more things to do but it's coming along well.

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Looks good. The crank is an L2-61A. The same one is used on the cross feed on the 10F and both versions of the 12". So finding a used one should be no problem.
 
Not sure if all my parts are original but this is a picture of the right hand side of mine.

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That looks OK except that the 9-103 handle is either missing or broken off. You can probably a new one from Clausing. If the old handle broke off instead of fell out, I would wait until getting the replacement before trying th extract the broken part. The hole may be slightly tapered.
 
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