Atlas lathe 10d restoration

Thanks!!!

I will need to shim it for the shims are gone.

If I pour new babbit with new shims I'm wondering if this will be ok.



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If your shims are gone, it's possible that your babbitt bearings are out of adjustability and potentially even oblong. I'm out of shims on mine, and I wish I had just a skosh more adjustment, because it's costing me accuracy that I can measure. Pouring babbitt is a forgotten art when the spindle needs to be parallel to the ways by 1 thou per foot or better. If anybody knows how to accomplish the job on an Atlas, I'd love to hear about it.

I suppose one option would be to use another Atlas lathe as a boring machine. Placing the babbitt head keyed into the bed ways and feeding it into a boring bar chucked in the running lathe's head comes to mind.
 
It appears the only option is to find a 10a-2b headstock. That's the bearing replacement stock for the 10D I believe.

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Well as you can see in the photos it's now dark outside as I been trying to beat this spindle problem.

To make the spindle parallel with the ways and casting when poring new babbit I thought of the below mounting arrangement.

What do you all think?
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I want to make sure the spindle is placed properly over the casting so no problems arise when assembling all the gears and pulley onto the spindle.

Below you can see leaving the original babbit in place and the spindle installed I removed a small piece of babbit to get to the casting and measured the distance from the back of the spindle to the casting. This is 1.740 inches. This now gives me a good landing point so the spindle lands correctly lengthwise in the new babbit.

The original bearing was installed to make sure the shaft lands correctly on the old babbit for the measurement needed. This bearing can be removed during the pour for I don't want to run the risk of heating it. Hopefully a tight packing of the babbit clay will prevent leaks when poring.

Also if you are disassembling the gears from your 10D spindle (and maybe other Atlas lathes) you will need to remove that pin were the hole is in the below photo. The pin is VERY hard to remove!! I ended up cutting the top off of the pin then heating it before banging it out.

I will return to the actual babbit pour later for I will be returning to work shortly and will need to purchase some equipment for the pour. I never did this before so this will be interesting lol!!!

I will continue to work on the other parts of the lathe and posting until it's time to pour.

Forgot... its probably a good idea to remove the oil caps on the top halves of the bearing before removing the babbit. They are lightly pressed into the casting and came out easily. I will probably be making adapters to use drip oils. We will build that bridge when we get to it lol.






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The complete spindle assembly parts are now cleaned and ready for installation when the time comes.

The gear to the left that drives the change gears will need to be replaced so it wasn't cleaned. It has a missing tooth and a lot of the ends of the teeth are almost gone.

The spindle bearing was packed with NBU-15 grease. This is the large spacer looking part to the left in the photo. I'd imagine that this bearing was made in the factory for this lathe (just a guess).

The role pin on the left will also need to be replaced as I had to cut the top off to remove it as I mentioned in the above posting.

The set screw in the pulley assembly I believe is for a oil hole to lubricate the bushing and spindle as it slides on the spindle during operation.

Dave
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Watching with interest! I'm looking forward to seeing your approach to the bearings especially.

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Yeah I'm sure it will be a don't try this at home kids moment with the babbit pour lol lol

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South Bend Chuck:

As I wait on the headstock as discussed above I will continue to work on the other parts of the lathe and probably will be somewhat random.

Below is a completed independent 4 jaw South Bend chuck.
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South Bend Chuck:

As I wait on the headstock as discussed above I will continue to work on the other parts of the lathe and probably will be somewhat random.

Below is a completed independent 4 jaw South Bend chuck.
8f243d49c73be1248450bd512e5ff27e.jpg
491a25b734d71485986f25161ed4b7f2.jpg
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