Atlas Headstock Bearings Questions And Concerns

Some updates on the overall project. I've splayed and scrubbed what I can with a toothbrush so far. I really need the hose to blow off some of the packed in stuff. Would anyone recommend against soaking the motor down. I plan to blow it out with air and let it sit for about a week before I try to run it again. That's if I decide to not pull it off and take it apart. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1427331410.198227.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1427331422.831055.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1427331462.735505.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1427331471.872825.jpg


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I would disassemble the motor and then wash it out with Varsol or equivalent. And let it set for several days.

I didn't read your previous carefully enough and notice that your left spindle oil cup is still present but missing the cap. I think that you can buy from McMaster (and probably other places) the proper diameter cup, just that the press in port will be too large. However, you can salvage the cap and spring from the new cup, and graft it onto yours.

The serial number of the one with both bearing dates of 9/10/46 is 072641.

I actually used SAE 30 in my 3996 for several years until I found the substitute for SAE 20. If your shop is warm, it should be OK.

Your machine didn't originally come with felt plugs in the spindle oil cups. And the PO didn't add them apparently. Which is probably why the capless one was plugged. If you decide to buy a sheet of felt and make them with an arch punch, the felt is fairly low density.
 
wa5cab said:
I would disassemble the motor and then wash it out with Varsol or equivalent. And let it set for several days.

I didn't read your previous carefully enough and notice that your left spindle oil cup is still present but missing the cap. I think that you can buy from McMaster (and probably other places) the proper diameter cup, just that the press in port will be too large. However, you can salvage the cap and spring from the new cup, and graft it onto yours.

The serial number of the one with both bearing dates of 9/10/46 is 072641.

I actually used SAE 30 in my 3996 for several years until I found the substitute for SAE 20. If your shop is warm, it should be OK.

Your machine didn't originally come with felt plugs in the spindle oil cups. And the PO didn't add them apparently. Which is probably why the capless one was plugged. If you decide to buy a sheet of felt and make them with an arch punch, the felt is fairly low density.
Click to expand...

Well since I have this wonderful lathe. Would you think if I had bought different cups with too large and insert. That they could be turned down to proper size? I suppose I'd have to have one in hand and be able to measure everything correctly. I have it so far apart now it would be shame
To not paint it. But generally if I ever try to
Paint something I never get around to finishing it. I hate paint work. I'm good at it I just cannot stand it. It's funny because I work in an automotive body shop however I'm the head mechanic.


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No, you can't buy a larger one and turn down the spout that gets pressed into the bearing journal because the cups are deep drawn from steel sheet and the wall thickness of the spout is far too thin. Your best bet is to buy the larger one and swap the cap and spring.
 
Alright sounds like a plan. I appreciate your insight into all this. You're definitely one intelligent person. Hopefully I can have it back together by Sunday evening.


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Started reassembly. Got the carriage on and to my displeasure I have .004 play in the rear and just about .002 in the front. This is after I spent about 45 minutes changing shims and such. Got the spindle all setup with a 7" length piece chucked up. Couldn't get any better then .004 play. And I think the spindle may be bent. Rotation is smooth except at one point were I can feel a bind. I'm hoping I can run it in and readjust. I have the motor off and am taking it apart to clean it. It's amazing what you'll find in some of this stuff. And luckily for me I found the front half of the case of the motor has a chunk cracked. Hopefully I'm not at fault. I was tapping lightly with a brass hammer. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1427509978.851015.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1427509998.677107.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1427510013.765926.jpg


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Walmart sells SAE 20 non-detergent oil in quarts.


Matt
 
Not sure if at this point I should start a new thread. If so please let me know and I will. I started pulling apart the motor and it was packed with metal brass and bronze. A chunk of the case broke off and I'm waiting till tomorrow so I can wash it in parts washer and stick it in my oven at work then I'll attempt to braze it. Or possibly mig since I've had decent results mig welding cast iron for a mini vice I use. Also I'm looking to see if anyone has a motor similar to mine that they'd like to part with since I'd like to keep this as original as possible is like to have a spare on hand as this one is seeming to lose power. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1427650492.862172.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1427650502.762541.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1427650510.863907.jpg


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You have a Timken bearing headstock, not babbit. There are no reason why you should have any play at all if you properly preloaded the bearings.and if the cones are still tight on the spindle. Runout, maybe. Play or side to side or up to down motion, no.
 
Okay I still have .004 up-down with a 7" piece in my chuck and a tight spot in the rotation. I'm waiting for a manual once I get one I'll do it exactly as it says to and see what happens.


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