Atlas Frankenstein Lathe

[kcoffield]

OK. First, for many years, I used to every now and again ask for a bottom view photo (from outside, inside or both) of the headstock castings from various models of the 10" and 12" Atlas and Craftsman lathes.

I posted in your recent thread requesting such.

Request for photos of the bottom of the Atlas 10" and early Craftsman 12" headstock.

Request for photos of the bottom of the Atlas 10" and early (i.e., 3/8" bed) Craftsman 12" headstock.

www.hobby-machinist.com

......There's absolutely no way the headstock casting could accommodate bottom exit of the belts, and certainly not placing the back gears underneath the spindle if that is part of the desired conversion.

Robert, I'm going to have to take back part of what I said above. It does look possible to cut a window in the old style headstock casting for bottom exit belts. Whether it's advisable may be another matter because it may compromise the structural integrity of the headstock, but you need at least 3 1/4" and better 3 1/2" opening for belt clearance from the 3" 2-groove pulley. If you mounted the headstock on a mill with along cutter, you could punch a hole approximately where shown below. You would also have to cut similar reliefs in the bed was and bottom rib under this location on the headstock.




Now, placing the back gears under the spindle is another matter. You need to cut away so much of the headstock it would certainly be compromised and you really don't have much material for the back gear shaft and then you would need an engagement mechanism for the back gear and there just isn't room so even though you may get the belts out the bottom the back gears would still....well, in back.

-My 2 cents

Best,
Kelly

 

[wa5cab]

OK Thanks. As I wrote earlier, I never expected that anyone would attempt to relocate the back gears underneath the spindle. Even ignoring any detrimental effects of removing that much metal, it seems an awful amount of work for zero gain. I suppose that it would make it possible to use the late 12" bench type countershaft assembly, which is probably stouter than the 10" horizontal one. But there would be no benefit for the back gears.

On the other hand, the cutouts for clearing the two belts would be relatively simple. The most difficult part of it would be figuring out where to cut. If the 1/2" bed is present, the bulkhead cutout would be the same size as the bed cutout. Except I would makke it longer by 1/2 or the cutter diameter rather than fighting to make square corners. The 1/2" bed would be the better choice if available and in good condition. But to use it, you would also need the carriage and tailstock assembly. And the early 12" headstock and countershaft would probably be slightly the better choice rather than the 10" as not only would you not need to make the riser, but the 12" countershaft would be almost a drop-in as it mounts to the lathe, not the bench or table.

 

[ryanH]

Not sure if anyone watches these older threads, but I must post 3 times, so, I’m working on my fist lathe th54 and need a little help, it did not come with the counter shaft, it was motor directly to headstock, so I am attempting to get one of two countershaft brackets I’ve come up with, a 12” with a tension bar, but I think That requires a bracket between the headstock and back gear left bracket, not sure if I can just match it on the right, if there is enough throw to still engage, or I have the curved 10” bracket, with lever, and I have the 4 grove pulley, but I don’t have the two bearing yokes., I’m in need of drawings, but can’t download yet, so I need one more post, sorry…

 

[ryanH]

3

 

[OTmachine]

Look here: http://www.vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=18609
I believe there are manuals there also. HTH