Atlas/Craftsman 6" Metal Lathe restoration 101.07300 1937

[Awround]

Castings are looking good. Are you keeping track of the altitude of the lathe?

Altimeter = rugged shop barometer!

Cheers,

Adrian

 

[mattthemuppet2]

that looks like a slightly lighter shade of blue than the one I just finished painting mine. Unfortunately in the 4-5 years between painting the first lot of parts (carriage, tail stock etc) and the second lot the colour changed a bit Nice to have a lathe all one colour though!

 

[Awround]

Today's task was to resolve an issue with the tumbler arm. The arm bearing surface was badly worn and very loose on the mounting stud.

The mounting stud bearing surface for the arm was skimmed to create a new bearing surface.



The tumbler arm was then bored to 3/4" and a steel plug fixed in the resulting hole. The plug was then bored to match the new bearing surface on the mounting stud. Slop resolved.





Cheers,

Adrian

 

[Awround]

that looks like a slightly lighter shade of blue than the one I just finished painting mine. Unfortunately in the 4-5 years between painting the first lot of parts (carriage, tail stock etc) and the second lot the colour changed a bit Nice to have a lathe all one colour though!

Evidently Rustoleum Royal Blue is the best match to the old Craftsman blue colour. I could not find the color locally and in the end went with the blue Rustoleum Engine enamel which is supposed to be more oil resistant.

Cheers,

Adrian

 

[mattthemuppet2]

I used satin Ink Blue, which also came out nice, bit darker than yours.

 

[Awround]

Started the re-assembly today. Replacing damaged fasteners as I find them and finishing the cleaning of all of the "little bits" as they go back on the lathe.

Two parts still need remediation:

a. the current banjo on the lathe is "homemade" and is missing the second angled arm. I guess that the original was damaged at some point (maybe with the change gear cover). I will need to make a new one; and

b. a new cross slide nut. Finding a double start left hand 3/8 x 20 tap has proven to be difficult. I will try making one but may be forced to remake both the cross slide nut and cross slide screw in the later 10 tpi Acme form.

Latter on I will make the missing change gears and threading indicator.

I have been looking at the sewing machine drives that John used on his mill:

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/servo-running-rough.90139/

With 500 rpm at the low end and a timing belt with suitable pulleys, I should be able to get the minimum spindle speed down to the same ballpark as the 101-07301 with backgear. Sewing machines need low speed torque so this might be a workable solution. The range of power options is also appealing. I will post the results if I end up going down this route.






Cheers,

Adrian

 

[wa5cab]

In your photo just above of the complete lathe, what does the knob to the right of the tumbler lever knob do?

 

[Awround]

This is the belt tensioning system. There is a tensioning shaft between the countershaft assembly and the headstock. There is a keyhole shaped slot that engages with a collar on the tensioning shaft. The knob is lifted and the collar is passed through the keyhole and moved to the front of the headstock casting to loosen the belt. The collar is returned through the keyhole to tighten the belt. When tight, the collar presses against the inside of the headstock casting. The belt tension is adjusted using a screw adjustment on the tensioning rod.

Cheers,

Adrian

 

[mattthemuppet2]

no back gear? Never seen a 6" Atlas/ Craftsman lathe quite like yours

 

[Awround]

The 101-07300 had no back gear. The minimum speed of 380 rpm made it fairly useless as a screw cutting lathe. This model only lasted for the 1937-38 sales year before being replaced by the 101-07301.

Other differences:

a. cross slide screw is a LH 3/8 x 20 double start V thread;
b. Belt tensioning is through a rod in the headstock; and
c. motor mounts directly on the countershaft bracket.

Cheers,

Adrian