Atlas 618 restoration finished

[schor]

So now you need to flip the back plate around on the spindle and indicate it up true. You may need to turn a off a bit of the threads to have it mate up to the register. Mate it up then indicate it to whatever part is registering the backplate to the chuck. (hope you understand) your actually going to be indicating the face that is facing the spindle. You might need shims to get it tight and indicated to 0, then face off the back side of the backplate that registers to the spindle and you should now have a perfect mating.

Hope I explained that right.

- - - Updated - - -

One other thing, can you take a picture of your spindle and a picture of the backplate end that normally goes onto the spindle? Perhaps your spindle is threaded up to the register and you just need to take a bit of thread off the backplate to have it mate up. Then we can check the runout.

 

[jster1963]

schor: With the back plate off of the chuck, I still can't get it all the way on. It is tapped all the way through. I don't see how doing anything to the back will make it screw all the way on the spindle. It is a brand new spindle from Clausing. I bought it because I thought my old spindle was the problem. It wasn't. I even bought this tap....ps Thank you for taking time to trouble shoot this with me!

 

[schor]

Ok, I see now. I thought your backplate would not meet the register only at some part, not all the way around.

So you need to remove a bit of the thread on the side that meets the register. Flip the backplate on the spindle so you can turn off a bit of the thread. The thread is hitting the end of the thread on the spindle stopping the backplate from meeting the register.

schor: With the back plate off of the chuck, I still can't get it all the way on. It is tapped all the way through. I don't see how doing anything to the back will make it screw all the way on the spindle. It is a brand new spindle from Clausing. I bought it because I thought my old spindle was the problem. It wasn't. I even bought this tap....ps Thank you for taking time to trouble shoot this with me!

 

[rustychuck]

Ok, I see now. I thought your backplate would not meet the register only at some part, not all the way around.

So you need to remove a bit of the thread on the side that meets the register. Flip the backplate on the spindle so you can turn off a bit of the thread. The thread is hitting the end of the thread on the spindle stopping the backplate from meeting the register.

Hey all,

I believe schor is correct. A pic of my 3 and 4 jaw chuck side by side. Craftsman 101.7301 6"



It looks like there is a little more relief before the threads start on my chucks.

Hope this helps.

jster1963 good work on the lathe looks great.

 

[jster1963]

schor: I GET IT! You are a GENIUS! Thank you so much. I will do that and make a youtube vid to hopefully help another novice like me. Thanks again.....

rustychuck: Thank you for the pix! Now I get what you guys are talking about! Wow! I will try my best to get that done in the next day or 2. However, tomorrow (Valentine's Day) is my anniversary so I'm not sure if I can sneak away and make chips. Keep you fingers crossed)

Thanks again guys......

 

[pipehack]

Nice work! Where did you get those belts? Part# and or price? Please.

 

[schor]

Where's the vid? :whistle:

All kidding aside. I just picked up a parts qc54 and it came with a chuck with the same problem you have.

Let's see who get's their vid done first.

I'm hoping to do it Saturday.

schor: I GET IT! You are a GENIUS! Thank you so much. I will do that and make a youtube vid to hopefully help another novice like me. Thanks again.....

rustychuck: Thank you for the pix! Now I get what you guys are talking about! Wow! I will try my best to get that done in the next day or 2. However, tomorrow (Valentine's Day) is my anniversary so I'm not sure if I can sneak away and make chips. Keep you fingers crossed)

Thanks again guys......

 

[jster1963]

pipehack: I got the belts from McMaster-Carr. I use 5/16"(part #59725K705 $1.81 per foot. I got 6') belt for the spindle and a 1/4"(part #59725K705 $1.11 per foot. I got 6') for the motor. You can use either size for both. I just like the fit better the way I have it. This is just a test to see if I like it cuz I have a green segmented link belt too. The orange belt is much quieter. The green link belt squeaks all by itself. It may be just because it's new. I'll show that in a vid soon.

schor: LOL! You will probably beat me to the vid because I'm putting together a new blast cabinet rite now while I'm thinking about the lathe chuck. I was able to get the chuck all the way on the register now with your help (THANKS A TON!!) and cut the runout to .002. I'm going to face the back plate and hopefully get it to .0005 or .00025. Vid soon)

 

[wa5cab]

jster,

0.002" TIR is better than average for most 3-jaw chucks. If you do manage to get it under 0.001" at one diameter, it probably won't hold for double or half that diameter. Also, to confirm that it is actually that good, chuck and remove your standard three times and see whether you get the same reading each time. If you do, I'd quit while I was ahead.

In the real world, standard tolerance for non-precision fitted interchangable parts is +/- 0.005" anyway. An engineer who specifies tighter tolerances than that when they aren't really needed won't keep his job very long because he'll cost too much.

Robert D.

 

[jster1963]

wa5cab: HOLY MOLY! Before I mess up something else, I have to show my ignorance. I didn't use a test bar for the run out. What I mean is I put a dial indicator on the face of the chuck (while on the spindle) and it shows .002 run out on the chuck face. Before I go and face the back plate, I need more info.

Is what I did a valid test? I thought that if the face of the chuck was true, then I could do a test bar and see if it is cutting a "cylinder."

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.......