Atlas 10F or 10D question

Here are some pictures of my 10F TH42 which Robert D has identified yours to be the same lathe as mine. You can see how the motor mount is directly behind the headstock and at a distance appropriate to the length of the belt used to connect the countershaft to the headstock. The belt from the motor to the countershaft needs to be long enough to have the motor suspended from it so that the motor actually provides the tension needed. Although it is hard to see, the motor is actually not in contact with the table top and is floating suspended by the belt. I have a newer solid pulley on the countershaft because the spoked pulley (like yours) was broken.

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Hope this helps you to get set up. I have enjoyed mine for over 25 years and it does all that I ask of it. Changing to a QCTP is mandatory to get the most out of it, though. I would also suggest you to go to a hardware store and replace all of the electrical wiring now, rather than waiting for it to go bad and have to work on it in the middle of a project. Don't ask me how I know that!

Frank Duncan

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Frank,

Minor correction - his would be an H42 as it has babbit bearings.

Robert D.
 
WOW that really helps ..thanks got it going and seems to be working good ..the only problem is I dont have my gearing chart to see what speeds Iam running ..the power feed on the carriage seems to run awful slow no matter what pulley step I change to..both on motor and lathe pulley steps..any ideas ????
 
Tawas,

Go to Downloads, Atlas/Cra..., Atlas/Craftsman Lathes, Atlas Lathe Maint...

At the bottom of the page is a spindle speed chart that will be applicable to your machine. About four files up the list is a 10F threading chart.

Unfortunately, the files are in no specific order as the system has absolutely no sort capability. The order is the order in which they were added, latest at the top.

When the lathe is set up for turning, typical advance per spindle revolution is less than .010". So even at the highest spindle speed, the carriage doesn't move very fast. If it did, you would get a very rough finish. Spindle speed is determined mainly by what type material you are turning (and what type cutter you are using). Feed (carriage feed) is determined by what finish you need or by what thread pitch you are cutting. For turning, you will generally only ever use two or three of the finer feeds, slightly coarser for roughing to near finish diameter. And then finer or finest for finishing. Or if you only have one part to make and not much material to remove, you'll run the whole job at the finest feed as time to change gears will exceed time to make more passes.

Robert D.
 
Wanted to ask what size is your 3 jaw chuck ..it looks huge and where did you get it ???
 
tawas23 said:
Wanted to ask what size is your 3 jaw chuck ..it looks huge and where did you get it ???
Click to expand...

If you are directing your question to me, it is a 6 1/2 inch no-name I bought off of eBay. I bought it and a back plate with the proper threads for the Atlas and fitted them together. I decided that I wanted a truly stout chuck that had reversible jaws and this one met the criteria. It has one set of jaws that are each held in by two Allen screws. Instead of 2 sets of jaws, you remove the Allen screws and reverse the jaws, fitting them back into their slots. There is enough beef that I can tighten down and not worry about hurting the chuck. In addition, the jaws are almost 3 inches deep so when I need holding over a longer distance I have it. It looks too big, but it has worked out very well as far as I am concerned.

Naturally, I also have a 4 jaw chuck. If you can only have one chuck, it would have to be a 4 jaw.
 
So my lathe says “10D-247” on the gear cover. It also has a power crossfeed? I need to buy some parts and im trying to figure of what model i actually have.
 
Greasy chevy,

If your lathe has power crossfeed, it is either a 10F or a conversion. 10D-247 is the gear cover part number (and casting number in this case). All that the 10D means is that the 10D was in production when this particular cover was introduced. Atlas SOP on part numbers was that the prefix meant that that was the current machine model when that version part was introduced. The suffix number is sorta meaningful in that for example all spindles are -31 unless there is a second part called a spindle on the machine. Unlike many other companies (GM being one of the worst offenders), Atlas didn't change a part number unless the part changed. For example, most parts used on the 618 6" lathe begin with "M6". Most shaper parts begin with S7. The Atlas mill has some parts that begin with 9, M6, S7. etc. My 12" 3996 still has a few parts on it whose numbers begin with 9, 10, 10D and 10F. Clausing didn't follow that rule. But they at least didn't re-number all existing parts.

However, "10D" and "10F" are Series numbers, not Model numbers. If you'll post a photo of your lathe, along with the bed length, I can probably tell you what the Model number is.
 
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