Atlas 101.21200 Non Restoration

[kopcicle]

I'm still a little hung up on bearings. I have 7205 w/o seals and frankly don't care for the idea.
So the parts keep coming in.
The federal test indicator is a welcome addition.
The old skool Starrett base is personal preference. I detest mag bases around magnetic swarf.
The armature chucks are not only useful but an original Atlas accessory. Tom (Clausing) still has a few sets NOS.
The collet chuck comes for Joel. I think I've been over this before. Most do not get the 1" registration correct.
No , "the backing plate does(not)register on the threads." The backing plate registers on the shoulder and 1" diameter.
littlemachineshop.com gets it right. Carl Siechert understands. So just get the good backing plate or make your own. Today I'm un, re, de, modeling a room and nothing further to report other than we are well (mostly) and cantankerous as ever .

And so it goes...

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[kopcicle]

VEVOR Rotary Table 6 in/152 mm 4-slot Horizontal Vertical Dividing Plates Precision Rotary Table, 360 Degrees For Milling Machine | VEVOR US

Discover VEVOR Rotary Table 6 in/152 mm 4-slot Horizontal Vertical Dividing Plates Precision Rotary Table, 360 Degrees For Milling Machine, Vertical & Horizontal Design and Durable Casting Material at lowest price, 2days delivery, 30days returns.

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https://www.amazon.com/BestEquip-Dividing-Indexing-Milling-Machine/dp/B081YPVVK1

https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/h7527_m.pdf

then all I need is a tailstock

next is the direct index trick




Harold Hall.
https://www.homews.co.uk/page463.html Just wow.

https://www.amazon.com/Workshop-Techniques-G-H-Thomas/dp/1857611063
found a used copy for significantly less
G.H. Thomas is yet another one.

machine tool castings
https://www.martinmodel.com/collections/machine-tools-casting-set/machine-tools-casting-set

http://mlatoolbox.com/ I'd be a little surprised if you didn't know this one.

I'm a couple days out from any significant progress. I got put on hold for a bit and back to it here in a few days.
At least it isn't my health this time. It's just timing , priorities, parts, Mom, Girl, Dog, house, USPS, UPS,FedEX, DHL...

So while I am waiting on waiting for to wait some more I thought I'd offer a sample of my browser history.
G.H. Thomas is known to many through his collaboration with Hemingway kits. To call Thomas detail oriented would be either an understatement or a slight. I have several of his publications. If you don't, then you don't know.

Harold Hall may not be known as well but his imagination, body of work, and abilities are on the order of artisans of old. His simple solutions to complex problems come as one epiphany after another as you go through his limited videos and extensive publications.

Back to waiting ...

 

[kopcicle]

FAG/Schaeffler 7205-B-XL-2RS-TVP Angular Contact Ball Bearing Sealed

 

[kopcicle]

it's getting there. I do occasionally have to combat the damage done by flying monkeys with hammers. I'm really too tired to elaborate but just imagine every screw, every nut, every bushing, every and I mean every gear tooth needing attention. At some point in this machines life it had been attacked by the four horsemen apocalypse armed with every manner of the wrong tool.

I prefer to embrace positive thinking. It's getting there.

 

[kopcicle]

Okay , buckle up , short sharp rant.

So in no particular order I have
purchased and shipped a lathe 1/3 of the way across the country
I have struggled with the deterioration due to years of neglect.
I have exorcised the wanton destruction of flying monkeys with hammers.
I sourced obsolete and discontinued parts from the likes of mymachineshop.net and littlemachineshop.com
Someone left the side door open at practical machinist and was able to post WTB .
An ebay seller I've known for years says "does this look familiar?" and I had new half nuts.
Clausing. If you ever speak with Brian or Tom about old inventory thank them for being there.
Help has arrived in the form of anonymous packages containing everything from HSS to bearings, to random pieces of stock. I'll just say Thank You and quit wondering who you are
I have limited tools
I'm starting over, at 65. with an eons old 6" metal lathe.

And all this one facebook keyboard warrior can say is
"I was taught to never place anything on the ways"
Then proceeds to school me on care and feeding of machinery in general, lathes specifically and my lathe in particular.

The reply went like this.

It's not your lathe. It's my lathe.
If it were your lathe you could happily restore it to museum quality non functional beauty.
I intend to use the hell out of this lathe once it's functional and quite possibly never pretty.
If your intent is to demean, denigrate, deride and "mansplain" care and feeding of a lathe to a retired millwright then have at it , somewhere else, to someone else, some other time.

The technical division of the mad Irish army made the next week of internet connectivity exceedingly difficult for this mutt. I have some very interesting family and friends.

Look , I have never, ever, demeaned or derided anyone's work. If I can't stand to look at it I just don't.
I can see potential beauty where someone else sees scrap.
I possibly didn't respond well to criticism in this case.
I didn't enjoy being taken to school by a 30 something keyboard warrior.
But he's right.
Good shop practices are good shop practices, then, now, and always.
If he had stopped there without a near copy and paste from NavPubDoc, MM & MR 3-2 intro to machine practices I wouldn't be typing this wall of text.

In conclusion, don't leave ANYTHING on the ways or gawd almighty will kill a kitten.
And the next time you're confronted by some invasive species of keyboard warrior, let it go. Your time is far better spent working on or with your machines.

:EOR

 

[matthewsx]

Sounds like FB to me. Stopped going there years ago and am happier for it.

 

[kopcicle]

Okay , it runs. but wait there's more.
@gggGary , thanks for part of the solution.
The belt is crap or has a couple of flat spots on it. Back off the tension so far you can't put a tool into aluminum and it runs fine. give it any tension at all and it's a bucking bronco.
Interlude for some good news. The time I spent on the gears paid off. There was so much crud in the root that there was no way to get close to a mesh. Razor blade, caustic chemicals, miniature files, multiple teeth breech, wash, rinse, repeat.
The gear train is nearly silent.
More good news. No detectable axial or radial slop, none, and very little heating.
Okay back to the flying monkeys with hammers.
The spindle may have near zero detectable run out between the bearing surfaces but the register for the chuck is messed up. Not only that the 2MT taper in the spindle is corroded.
A super sharp piece of 5% cobalt HSS reestablished the face but there is little that can be done for the 1.375 outer diameter. Neither of the chucks I have make use of the specified 1.000" dia register so I have to make do with the face . I'll include the pdf.
It appears I have a ways to go before I have a tool I can use. For those of you that might suggest...
No, I could turn between centers right now if I took the taper out but that gets old real fast.
I'll suss out the damaged 2MT in the spindle bore this weekend. The reamers are on the way.
Then I have to decide which center to go with, the register (and which chuck, 4 jaw , duh) or the spindle ID .
it's 11:45 pip emma out here on the left coast. I've done enough damage for one day.
Now where was the flying monkey repellent ?

 

[kopcicle]

The reamer set I received from the AmaZombies. looks good.
I tied the roughing an finish back to back with each other and , parallel.
I did the same with a known good 2MT taper and, parallel.

So far so good.

Now to dial the face register and the 2MT taper and record the run out. The face should be zero after a skim of the face. The 2MT taper will have to be cleaned up prior to indicating.

Then the options.

Move the 2MT taper. This is actually the easiest as the reamers both have a rear center.
Simply offset a center held in the tool holder or offset the tail stock the amount of radial run out , lock the spindle and advance the reamer.

Move the face. This sucks as anything done to the face other than perfectly perpendicular to the axis is just brain dead and would work only with that specific accessory.

Face to face chucks. Where you install a chuck on the spindle and true a shaft to it no mater what else is going on.
Place the other chuck on the shaft with its jaws facing the installed chuck.
Reproduce its angular misalignment on the shaft and verify by indicating on it's register.
if the misalignment between the OD of the chuck, the registration face and to a lesser degree, the "natural" center in the case of the scroll chuck agree, The spindle is bent.
If the register does not agree with the OD or the "natural" center in a scroll chuck but the "natural" center do agree then straighten the register. (what a bunch of words)

The four jaw is easier once the three jaw is close. Get the run out and angular distortion out of the shaft. resort to the cigarette paper trick for out of round, tap to center for the live end.
Install the 4 jaw on the shaft exposing the register. True up the OD for run out. indicate the register. True up the register if necessary.

Wash , rinse , repeat, until this becomes a repeatable operation. If it doesn't , run around in circles (isn't that what we've been doing?) screaming "Murphy!!! WHHHHHHY Me !!!!"

Then it's back to the internal taper and making it agree to the total indicated run out ( hopefully near nil at this point)
If not then it's easy enough to move the taper a "few" thousands.

and so it goes

 

[kopcicle]

The reamer set I received from the AmaZombies. looks good.
I tied the roughing an finish back to back with each other and , parallel.
I did the same with a known good 2MT taper and, parallel.

So far so good.

Now to dial the face register and the 2MT taper and record the run out. The face should be zero after a skim of the face. The 2MT taper will have to be cleaned up prior to indicating.

Then the options.

Move the 2MT taper. This is actually the easiest as the reamers both have a rear center.
Simply offset a center held in the tool holder or offset the tail stock the amount of radial run out , lock the spindle and advance the reamer.

Move the face. This sucks as anything done to the face other than perfectly perpendicular to the axis is just brain dead and would work only with that specific accessory.

Face to face chucks. Where you install a chuck on the spindle and true a shaft to it no mater what else is going on.
Place the other chuck on the shaft with its jaws facing the installed chuck.
Reproduce its angular misalignment on the shaft and verify by indicating on it's register.
if the misalignment between the OD of the chuck, the registration face and to a lesser degree, the "natural" center in the case of the scroll chuck agree, The spindle is bent.
If the register does not agree with the OD or the "natural" center in a scroll chuck but the "natural" center do agree then straighten the register. (what a bunch of words)

The four jaw is easier once the three jaw is close. Get the run out and angular distortion out of the shaft. resort to the cigarette paper trick for out of round, tap to center for the live end.
Install the 4 jaw on the shaft exposing the register. True up the OD for run out. indicate the register. True up the register if necessary.

Wash , rinse , repeat, until this becomes a repeatable operation. If it doesn't , run around in circles (isn't that what we've been doing?) screaming "Murphy!!! WHHHHHHY Me !!!!"

Then it's back to the internal taper and making it agree to the total indicated run out ( hopefully near nil at this point)
If not then it's easy enough to move the taper a "few" thousands.

 

[kopcicle]