Atlas 101.21200 Non Restoration

kopcicle

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That's all you get for now. I'll have other photos later.
I obsess so bear with me , or don't.
I'm rnon-restoring a Craftsman 101.212 to perfect working order. It will remain ugly as sin.


The 101.00 Atlas did indeed have tapered roller bearings.
The 101.212 uses 6305 deep groove ball bearings
the 10100 uses the 701-088 spindle
The 101.212 uses the 701-083 spindle
30305 Timken would accomplish the the swap but..
They are 18.250 mm wide
If you want 17mm wide use the 237 cone -233 cup and shell out $2k for the pair.
The issue with the swap isn't the width however
How do you preload the bearings? The 701-083 spindle has no threaded preload nut .
Practical consideration is tale of the axial clearance of the 6305 you intend to use.

Now on to what I found inside.
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Filthy but nothing broken. I did have a minor hiccup in the F/R tumbler gears and lever. The detent and spring in the lever is irrevocably seized in place and one of the tumbler gears seized to the shaft and the rivet is turning in the plate.
The lead screw is free, not bent or otherwise abused.
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Even with the setscrews removed the collar would not budge. Finally forcing a putty knife between the gear and the collar started it moving. There was actually a whole previous evolution that I don't have pics for.
The direct drive coupling , 141-030 had been attacked by flying monkeys with hammers , pliers and bad intent.
The circlip retaining the direct drive coupling , 141-030, had somehow been peened into place by the same flying monkeys.
Once the mangled part in question had finally been removed from the shaft it was on to the woodruff key and some sort of age hardening shmoo that gave off an odor reminiscent of spoiled meat when heated.
Now we are on to the removal of the 3950-14 spindle pulley assembly.
Even after careful stoning of the spindle and somewhat haphazardly measuring the diameter of the spindle to make sure it hadn't put on weight or diameter over the years I proceeded to attempt to remove the spindle pulley assembly.
The inner bushing stayed behind. 400gr sanding strip had to be applied to the spindle in order to remove the remaining bushing.
Now we're on to the spindle back gear.
Keep in mind here that I had a large selection of prying and stabby things and little else for this operation.
You can get behind the gear somewhat with a large flat blade screw driver and rotate, stab, pry, repeat.
Being careful not to pry anywhere near the gear teeth and applying force through only the thickest portions of the headstock casting the bugger finally moved. Eventually this too stopped short of the end of the spindle and a bit more 400gr was used to reduce the diameter of the spindle further.
Somewhere along the way I seemed to have missed the fact that bearings that appeared to be "Completely Knackered" had now taken on the aspect of perfectly serviceable bearings. I'll have to very closely take a look at the assembly to determine what Murphy snuck in on me.
Compared to all of this the removal of the spindle with the chuck side bearing still attached and it's subsequent removal is only the mater of an hour or so of alternating heating , cooling, swearing and tears.

There is one more thing.

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The aforementioned flying monkeys with hammers , pliers and bad intent had in fact caused the random disappearance of two teeth from the M6-68 pinion shaft. Would anyone happen to know the DP and PA of this gear and the rack?
I'm waiting on a few parts from Joel and some monkey repellent from the publishers of the Satanic Bible.
I doubt I'll ever do the tapered roller bearing conversion unless I have to do a bunch of fine facing operations.
Believe me, it is possible to the point of certainty that you can set up a high frequency resonance in the axial plain of the spindle simply by banging the roller bearings back and forth. The noise is rich in harmonics which distinguishes it from ordinary high frequency tool chatter.

All for now as the pizza is here and I have to ready to repel flying monkeys with hammers , pliers and bad intent at a moment's notice

Dennis
 


Just in case you want to follow along at home or build a bridge just to drag a rope across. :)
 
I have one of those too (Craftsman version) and never tried to take the spindle out. Now I definitely won't. LOL
You're braver than me
 
I had one of these and had to remove the spindle and replace the bearings.



John
 
Dennis , is this what you are after ?

Mark .
Mark, that's the part. No offense to Joel but I'd prefer to get it elsewhere and let Joel get his money from some rich , needy fellow on ebay. There is sure to be someone out there that doesn't know .
It came to my notice some years back that if you are owned by one of these lathes you simply must have Joel in the rolodex. I've known Joel for several years now. He'd likely mortgage the parts I need :wink: but business is business is business.
On a side note, I have no way of determining the DP or PA of that gear and rack. If someone could find out for me ...
 
Many parts for Atlas lathes are still available from Atlas/Clausing. Their prices are usually reasonable, I think. I suspect Joel buys some of his stuff from Clausing and marks it up.

Just give Clausing a call. You will need to look up the part you need and know the Atlas part number when she asks.
 
The search for the elusive 72052RS continues today. Preloading angular contact bearings will be easier than tapered roller bearings as the 3950 or 101.21200 doesn't have the threads or nut on the spindle that the 10100 does.

I don't see any spacer between the bearing and the spindle back gear although my assembly had a .040" washer between the gear and the bearing.
Does anyone know if there is a spacer or washer between the bearing and the spindle back gear ?
it was only as I was beating the spindle and bearings out of the headstock that I got the spindle to turn free. prior to the beat down the spindle felt like a box-o-rocks .
Does anyone have the Atlas or Atlas-Craftsman 6" metal lathe armature mica undercutter . M6-510A , preferably without my having to take out a mortgage? I'm thinking poor man's toolpost grinder .

The struggle is real :)



 
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So 6205 ball bearing is a 7205 in angular contact bearings and 30205 is the tapered roller bearing .

At issue here is the much lighter preload that the angular contact bearings require compared to the tapered roller bearings. The 10100 has the tapered roller bearings and the 701-088 spindle.
The 3950 or 101.21200 (mine) uses the ball bearings and the 701-083 spindle.
I'll save you the trouble of looking for my boggle. The 701-083 has no threads or nut to preload tapered roller bearings. However a stout wave washer placed between the spindle back gear(pg 17 ref #5 341-374) and the retaining collar(pg 17 ref #7 123-140) will be enough to preload the angular contact ball bearings.
Of course installation becomes a bit of a trick as you have to compress the assembly and then tighten the setscrews.

Yes , once I get the lathe operational I can make any damn spindle I want :)

* You wouldn't happen to know where I could purchase any shot out, worn out .50 BMG barrels would ya ?
Hint , the spindle through hole isn't much bigger than 1/2" and there is enough material in the breach area to turn the shoulder and 1" 10TPI threads
 
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