Atlas 10 toggle switch ideas to replace

oldschoolcane

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I have an atlas 10 lathe that hesitates when I turn the original toggle switch to the on position? Would replacing the toggle switch help with this? If so, where can I locate an acceptable replacement?20220910_140402.jpg
 
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The motor start capacitor could be bad.
Does the switch action seem loose?
 
DigiKey or Mouser will have suitable replacement. What is the current rating on the old switch?
 
As you have already cut the wires to the switch, I would go ahead and replace the switch. However, you said that it also hesitates before starting. After flipping the switch to ON, did you do anything else? Such as putting you hand on the chuck and turning it? If so, probably the Start capacitor is bad. Although it might be the centrifugal switch needs cleaning and lubricating.
 
Okay now I see the picture.
Yeah start by replacing the switch, be sure to get one that is rated for motor service of equal or higher horsepower. If that doesn't help, change the capacitor.
 
The switch can be replaced with any toggle switch, even automotive if it has high enouh voltage and current rating. You can also use, my recommendation, the single on/off contacts of a drum switch. The other two switches can be ignored, not connected, The two wires run from the line side to the motor. Simple, you can extend them to locate the switch wherever is convenient for you.

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Replace the toggle switch- if the problem still there then you'll need to either:
A) Replace the motor start capacitor
or
B) Open the motor and repair or replace the internal centrifugal start switch

Most folks replace the capacitor first, but with the cost of capacitors going up these days I'd probably take a look inside the motor first
-M
 
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After thinking about the subject for awhile, I had a thought about old motor switches. This from the days I was attached to an Ice Breaker (~1970) and the technology was old then. There was a reversing switch for DC motors, 4 wires, that had mechanical innards that delayed. Some sort of latching mechanism. I never had one apart, never needed to replace one. But remember using one a few times. Old days, older equipment, much older ship.(~1942) What gets my attention is the extremely long switch body pictured. Twice or more that of a generic toggle switch.

The switch in question has only two position, single pole, two wire, a simple ON/OFF switch. Maybe, since it dates from the same period as that ship, it contains a latching/delay mechanism like the ones I dealt with. I see no reason why it should be so, but for old machines that were adapted and sold for shipboard use, it is within the realm of possibility.

A couple of other points that will be closer to useful. First is DO NOT use a generic light switch from the hardware store. They will not withstand the "flyback" of an inductive load. (motor load) One will fail eventually, often when switching off. The contacts will weld. . .

The other involves a "political" possibility, that of China. (current 2209) I had found on eBay a plastic drum switch for around $10. That was a couple-three years back, the price is probably much higher today. But if you can find one, the plastic is rigid, they are rated for 480 volts and several horsepower. I had bought several, several machines and spare parts. Never be without spare parts, at least the simple stuff.


Well, as of today, 220908(?) they aren't all that expensive, yet. This is what I put on my machines. I am happy with the operation and haven't needed any spares, yet. Let's just hope that if I do need spares, I can still find them.

While as a rule, you won't want to run a threaded (1-1/2x8) spindle in reverse, there are occasions where it can come in handy. I wind my own coils for small solenoids, reversing means I can feed the wire to the top where I can see what I'm doing. If/when you do need to do so, a reversing switch already mounted can be to your advantage. Just a matter of wiring. . .

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I was using the lathe and then had to move my shop and tools, so that's why I am considering adding a new switch now that I am putting the machine back together. Maybe I should wire in the original switch and try to get a better idea of what its doing before I go further. Will see.
 
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