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- Feb 13, 2017
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It was general practice with flat bearings to cast them in place oversize enough that a few shims would be necessary on the bearing cap(s). As the bearing wears in normal use, a shim would be removed to snug up the bearing. Of particular importance in this case where the bearing has run dry, the shaft may have spots of bearing material built up on it. When the bearing cap is replaced, this would make the bearing seem to be too tight. The shaft bearing surface should be "pristine", at least as near so as practicable.
From the looks of the photos, the bearing is not too bad and is probably usable as is. Bearing contact is not 100% even when new. Hand scraping a new bearing to about 85% should cover it. If you wanted to be sure, the shaft could be blued, the bearing cap installed, and the shaft spun over once ir twice. If there is less than 50% of the blueing left, you're good to go. Check that the oil holes and any oil grooves are clear and clean. See that the shaft is well lubricated on reassembly. But not flooded. If necessary to build up the bearing some, kitchen aluminum foil makes good shims. Several thin shims are a better chioce than a single thicker shim.
You must keep in mind that my experience as a helper was 50 years ago. And the machines that I (we) were working on were a little larger than a lathe. As an electrician in the Coast Guard during the late 60s and early 70s, I worked with the ship yard mechanics on small ships commissioned in the late 40s to early 50s, rebuilding main motor pedestals and propeller shaft bearings. The experience was a long time ago and my memory should be taken with a grain nay box of salt. But as a general overview, I still have some memories left.
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From the looks of the photos, the bearing is not too bad and is probably usable as is. Bearing contact is not 100% even when new. Hand scraping a new bearing to about 85% should cover it. If you wanted to be sure, the shaft could be blued, the bearing cap installed, and the shaft spun over once ir twice. If there is less than 50% of the blueing left, you're good to go. Check that the oil holes and any oil grooves are clear and clean. See that the shaft is well lubricated on reassembly. But not flooded. If necessary to build up the bearing some, kitchen aluminum foil makes good shims. Several thin shims are a better chioce than a single thicker shim.
You must keep in mind that my experience as a helper was 50 years ago. And the machines that I (we) were working on were a little larger than a lathe. As an electrician in the Coast Guard during the late 60s and early 70s, I worked with the ship yard mechanics on small ships commissioned in the late 40s to early 50s, rebuilding main motor pedestals and propeller shaft bearings. The experience was a long time ago and my memory should be taken with a
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