Are galvanised corrugated panels safe to put on the inside walls of a work shed?

Cement board for the floor...But sheetrock/gypsum board is cheap and it's main reason for existence is fireproofing. So I would go with that on the walls.
 
LEEQ said:
If you want 4x8 sheets of Hardie soffit, you need the contractors/lumber counter. These will work on 16" layout either direction. The flooring dept will have the 3x5 sheets with squares instead of pretty wood grain. They don't work on any layout. Either way you go I think this is a great idea for fire resistant lining material:)) Edit-- You can get nippers from the rental counter to cut it without the cloud of concrete dust. they look like a drill with three metal fingers on front. Two remain fixed and the third moves up and down between them cutting a 1/4" path through the material.
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Hi Lee,
I wanted to use screws , corrosive resistant , hot dipped galv or ss to fasten the hardy board sierra 8 panels directly to the studs in the shed.
But, I read that only the 1/2" panels can be screwed in this manner, the 1/4" panels tend to fall from their own weight(70-75lbs for a 4 by 8 panel).
I can only afford the 1/4" plus the 1/2" is too heavy to work.
Any advice , is fireproof sheetrock as good as hardie board panels for interior walls?
could I use the 3 by 5 panels (hardie backer board for tile layout, for the walls.
Only 28.5 lb per 3 by 5 panel.
Thanks,
Jon
 
ome said:
Hi Lee,
I wanted to use screws , corrosive resistant , hot dipped galv or ss to fasten the hardy board sierra 8 panels directly to the studs in the shed.
But, I read that only the 1/2" panels can be screwed in this manner, the 1/4" panels tend to fall from their own weight(70-75lbs for a 4 by 8 panel).
I can only afford the 1/4" plus the 1/2" is too heavy to work.
Any advice , is fireproof sheetrock as good as hardie board panels for interior walls?
could I use the 3 by 5 panels (hardie backer board for tile layout, for the walls.
Only 28.5 lb per 3 by 5 panel.
Thanks,
Jon
Click to expand...

Firerock is still sheetrock with paper facing. It is used to face two walls facing each other with a small space between to split apartment buildings and such into sections and slow fire from spreading. My opinion is concrete board is better. 5/8" Fire rock would be cheaper though. You could put the 1/4" concrete up with a vey few screws (pan head, not countersunk) if you glue the studs with construction adhesive. once the glue is set the screws don't do much and could in theory be removed. If you aren't trying to countersink the screws you could pre drill the holes and just about eliminate the crumbling of the edges. I would avoid 3x5 as it would waste your material time and money cutting it to fit 16" centers. Were it me I would lay some pole barn metal the wrong way (horizontal), screw it off, and go with it. But I collect it and coil stock off jobs and own a brake table. I would have skinned the walls and made my own trim for the price of labor and effort of dragging the steel in and out of my truck (which is on the job anyway). Yes, I'm sure if a HOT piece of molten metal was trapped against the paint it would melt it, but better than burning zinc by far. As a side note, should you need a bomb shelter, your shed may suffice. At least the floors and walls.:))
 
So, does anyone know if The primed hardie board panels used on interior walls of shed need to be painted.
I would prefer to just leave them primed and unpainted.
Thanks,
jon
 
Your choice, I would prefer no painting myself, I hate to paint. Besides, paint is melty. I would shoot for unprimed. Not a bad color with nothing to melt and should be cheaper. I have put up pre painted siding, but the soffit sheets have all been bare. Not saying it isn't out there, but I haven't hung any yet. Good luck.
 
I really hate painting but in this case I think its a necessary evil. The primed surface on the sheets is rough to accept paint, so its going to accept dirt equally well. With the dust your / Im going to get from welding and grinding and in my case a coal forge they will be black in no time. Hopefully a coat of gloss paint will allow the walls to be brushed off from time to time.
Out of curiosity what type of fasteners are recommended when this is used as siding. I'm putting it up inside the same as Jon, so corrosion and in my case ascetics aren't important so I just used drywall screws..

Greg
 
f350ca said:
I really hate painting but in this case I think its a necessary evil. The primed surface on the sheets is rough to accept paint, so its going to accept dirt equally well. With the dust your / Im going to get from welding and grinding and in my case a coal forge they will be black in no time. Hopefully a coat of gloss paint will allow the walls to be brushed off from time to time.
Out of curiosity what type of fasteners are recommended when this is used as siding. I'm putting it up inside the same as Jon, so corrosion and in my case ascetics aren't important so I just used drywall screws..

Greg
Click to expand...
Hi Greg,
galv hot dipped or ss #8 by .350 head dianeter ,self drilling , ribbed, wafer head screw.
Jon
 
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The screws that lay on top when tight don't break corners and edges of the 1/4" board as easily as countersunk screws. I suppose if you weren't trying to pull the screws down flush with the surface that might help too. I think galvy truss head screws would be great for this. Stainless if you like. They have a nice large pan head with a low profile.
 
After 3 days of looking, finally found 4 by 8 sheets in 1/4" of hardy backer board about 50 min drive.
They want 33. A sheet, and the 1/2"(.42) is 25. A sheet. Just cause no one else around gets it.
Oh well, the savings is not worth the extra weight of each panel
jon
 
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