Anyone done Manganese Phosphate at home?

A long time ago I made a pressure bluing tank for a old gunsmith out of PVC pipe with threaded end caps and a fitting for air, he would add bluing to the pipe close it up and add about 10 lb. air pressure to the pipe and put the pipe in a heated bluing tank and he said it worked real good. I am not sure if it will work on your stuff, but would be nice to know if it works better, since I never seen the finished product on the gun barrels.
Paul
That is a pretty slick idea for doing gun barrels but it doesn't have anything to do with the final finish. The reason is to keep the end plugs from popping out of the barrel after it's heated in the tank. The air inside the barrel expands creating pressure, and blowing the plugs out - getting the solution inside the bore where it is not wanted. Having more pressure on the outside of the barrel vs inside the barrel prevents this. :thumbzup:

In Tony's case he wants to finish the inner bore as well - if I'm not mistaken.... :)

Manganese Phosphate:
Manganese Phosphate.jpg

Manganese Phosphate.jpg
 
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Quite correct, I need 100% coverage. I have done gun barrels in the big tanks we had at work, and didn't bother plugging the ends. Two factors: A soft bore brush removes the coating, and the slick, smooth finish prevents much of a bond inside the barrel. That's why the brush removes it easily.
 
Bite the bullet and get a stainless tank.
It's best and stop wasting the effort in trying to save .

Robbie
 
Well, Robbie.....I am a prototype shop, and I am not sure this will turn in to a regular need. I can get those 24" diameter FG vessels for nothing, already have the heaters, so my ROI will be pretty quick. In fact, this job will cover all of it. Should I get serious, I'll go all EPA and stainless.....etc, etc,. I know the drill, I used to do this professionally, at considerable volume.
 
Just wanted to update this.

I did get the 2 fiberglass vessels. Turns out they are about 5/16" thick polyethylene with about 3/16" spiral fiberglass outer jacket. I sawed the tops off, and using about 65 gallons, and 3kw heaters, I get the caustic and phosphate solutions to ~190 f. I washed the parts in a solvent bath to get most of the oils off, then a 10-15 minute caustic bath, then rinse....into the phosphate they go. Small parts don't chill the solution and come out in about 10 minutes. Larger parts that have been soaking in the caustic are still pretty warm (can't handle them barehanded) and don't need much time to reach reaction temperature either. Experimenting a little some parts are pretty fast, some take 30 minutes to develop a proper coating. A quick spray rinse between the caustic and the phosphate bath seems to get enough of the caustic off the parts. Same deal with the after phosphate bath, except it would be better to rinse in a hot tank. Once the part has been cooled off by a water hose rinse, it dries slowly, and the potential for rust is there. So far, I have rinsed with a spray hose, then blown with an air compressor (leaf blower next time), and finally a WD40 spray to stop the reaction and displace any water remaining. Made delivery today of 3 sets of parts for the coil tubing tool, and the customer was very pleased. Once this prototype passes muster, I will be sole manufacturer of this tool. it has the potential for maybe 100 tools a month. Good and bad.....it's more than I can make manually. So, I can sub out some to other small shops I know of around here who run CNC, or go CNC myself. But that still only leaves me.......but I might have to hire my wife and daughter.


Just thought you guys might want to know how it worked out. I failed to get some pictures of the finished parts (I did get some of the pre-phosphate parts). Even though my NDA prevents me from showing too much, I might get away with showing a couple of parts.
 
Of course. I am comfortable, and familiar with this process, and have all the PPE here. It's not really such an obnoxious process, and not really dangerous if you're careful.

Thanks for pointing it out though.
 
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