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Any advice on a Bridgeport 2J variable speed 9x42
- Thread starter diamond
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 12,251
Diamond: run the table all the way to one end and the other- depending on how much it tightens up at the ends of travel gives you some idea of the wear on the ways/gibs. The longer tables also have more sag at the ends which can be an issue if you do a lot of long parts
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Before you are your neighbor moves anything I would check to see if you can pump oil to the ways.Some people including myself sees a grease fitting and think its for grease(not),if you do have oil pump check it out see if it works.If not well there's little over couple hundred. And parts are still available Yahoo for that.Post some pics would love to see your mill
Kroll, it has a one shot oiler. We haven't tried it to see if it works yet. If it doesn't, and it's just the pump, I bought a one on ebay for my lathe and it works fine for $45. Hoping to get it off his trailer and into his shop tomorrow to start really looking at it.
I'm going to go ahead and give you congrats on your BP,it being a single phase is a big plus.You have a lot of good help from the guys above to help with replacing those bushings and help with tooling up.Looking forward to pics of the milling setting in your shop.
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2016
- Messages
- 16
Daimond, is the light going out overthere? What's become of the mill?
Sorry for abandoning this thread! I got distracted with a bent spindle problem I ran into when finishing the head rebuild. That saga is documented here Spindle Binding
The good news is that issue was easily resolved. Spindles are actually quite soft metal it turns out. The machine is running quite nicely now.
I splurged on a Kurt and have a reasonable assortment of end mills, collets and even a rotary table now. Currently in the process of installing a DRO on it. Turns out I was misinformed and the motor is actually the original 3-phase. No worries. I put a Hitachi VFD on it same as my lathe. In the picture below you can see the housings that hold the VFDs and electronics behind both machines. Also on the left side of the mill head you can just make out the control box I wired up for the VFD. I plan on putting a tach in it at some point in the future. Yes the machine is still sitting on the pipes I rolled it into the shop on. LOL I am dithering with putting leveling feed on it at some point.
I'll post up some better pictures when I finish the DRO installation.
The good news is that issue was easily resolved. Spindles are actually quite soft metal it turns out. The machine is running quite nicely now.
I splurged on a Kurt and have a reasonable assortment of end mills, collets and even a rotary table now. Currently in the process of installing a DRO on it. Turns out I was misinformed and the motor is actually the original 3-phase. No worries. I put a Hitachi VFD on it same as my lathe. In the picture below you can see the housings that hold the VFDs and electronics behind both machines. Also on the left side of the mill head you can just make out the control box I wired up for the VFD. I plan on putting a tach in it at some point in the future. Yes the machine is still sitting on the pipes I rolled it into the shop on. LOL I am dithering with putting leveling feed on it at some point.
I'll post up some better pictures when I finish the DRO installation.
Here's some pictures of the DRO install now that it's done. Took a good bit of futzing before I got the Z axis on. The other two were easy.
There's nothing novel or new here. I learned a lot from others posts and adapted some of what I saw a bit. I could have done a bit more to give a finished look, like 45 off some corners but I didn't. lol But maybe this will help someone else.
Y axis: Turned the standoffs with a threaded stud on one side, threaded hole on the other side the scale mounting bar is attached to.
X axis:
Z axis: Note all the grub screws to deal with curvy surfaces. That was fun. Only way I could get it running square and true. Got the scale to about 0.001 over the 15" length on both the side and rear. Pretty happy with that. But it was a chore.
Final product:
There's nothing novel or new here. I learned a lot from others posts and adapted some of what I saw a bit. I could have done a bit more to give a finished look, like 45 off some corners but I didn't. lol But maybe this will help someone else.
Y axis: Turned the standoffs with a threaded stud on one side, threaded hole on the other side the scale mounting bar is attached to.
X axis:
Z axis: Note all the grub screws to deal with curvy surfaces. That was fun. Only way I could get it running square and true. Got the scale to about 0.001 over the 15" length on both the side and rear. Pretty happy with that. But it was a chore.
Final product: