Another whatz this

Plum Creek said:
flutedchamber
I suspected that might be the case. I asume from what I have read, that chip load vs hp would be the issue here? Well hopefully I can trade someone for R8 tooling.
hh
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The large cutter would just beat the machine to death. It takes a lot of horsepower to make a 4 inch cutter take a full cut in steel, or aluminum for that matter. I'm not saying it's not done, because people do. Just not ones that care for their machines or have a dose of commons sense.
 
I wouldn't hesitate for a second spinning that 4" facemill in my B&S 10 taper Gorton 9J.

Of course the 9J has a 3hp motor, has a full 4" quill, and is MUCH more rigid than a B'port.
 
Your R8 collet is driven by a little pin in the spindle. It is about 1/8" in diameter,and bears against the groove in the R8 collet's shank. It is possible to shear off that little pin and really screw up the inside of your spindle when that hardened pin goes round and round in it. Think about that when considering overloading an R8 collet.

You can also have the pin beat itself into the side of the groove in the collet,making it nearly impossible to extract the collet from the spindle. I had that happen years ago while using the right angle attachment on a mill at work. Subsequently, I removed the pesky pin from the machine at work,and never had a problem with the R8 rotating in the spindle. We always tightened the draw bar well. I'd like to remove the pin from my mill at home,but haven't been able to unscrew the ring that covers the set screw over the pin. My right angle attachment had been used a lot before I got it,and already had had the pin beat into its groove's side. I had a job of it getting that blasted attachment off the mill!! You do not want to have to do that job.

That is an expensive hogging shell mill. You ought to sell those.
 
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Any chance of providing a picture showing the profile cut on that chuck jaw?

Looks like something I maybe familiar with.
 
It is not an inserted thread mill. The inserts have alternating tooth patterns to lessen the chipload per insert. One insert leaves proud ridges where the next one cut them off, leaving similar ridges in alternating locations. One slight drawback to that is that you must rotate all inserts at the same time to keep the alternating pattern going.

Thread mills are not staggered. They run at a constant speed and interpolate a circle one or more times (roughing and finishing) while making a synchronized move in -Z- per the lead of the thread.
 
4gsr said:
Any chance of providing a picture showing the profile cut on that chuck jaw?

Looks like something I maybe familiar with.[/QUOTE

4gsr
I got behind on the thread sorry. I hope these help.
hhsoftjay 002.jpgsoftjay 006.jpg

softjay 002.jpg softjay 006.jpg
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george wilson said:
Your R8 collet is driven by a little pin in the spindle. It is about 1/8" in diameter,and bears against the groove in the R8 collet's shank. It is possible to shear off that little pin and really screw up the inside of your spindle when that hardened pin goes round and round in it. Think about that when considering overloading an R8 collet.

You can also have the pin beat itself into the side of the groove in the collet,making it nearly impossible to extract the collet from the spindle. I had that happen years ago while using the right angle attachment on a mill at work. Subsequently, I removed the pesky pin from the machine at work,and never had a problem with the R8 rotating in the spindle. We always tightened the draw bar well. I'd like to remove the pin from my mill at home,but haven't been able to unscrew the ring that covers the set screw over the pin. My right angle attachment had been used a lot before I got it,and already had had the pin beat into its groove's side. I had a job of it getting that blasted attachment off the mill!! You do not want to have to do that job.

That is an expensive hogging shell mill. You ought to sell those.
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Thanks George, for that information. I had seen references to that pin in other post but didnt understand untill now what they were talking about. When I get back out to the shop I will take a look at the parts diagram for the spindle drive system.
I try to make my all of my equipment last as long as possible and have no intention of overloading it, so I really appreciate all the input that I have gotten here.
hh
 
hh,

It doesn't quite match up with what I was thinking of. It was worth a try though.

Ken
 
4gsr said:
hh,

It doesn't quite match up with what I was thinking of. It was worth a try though.

Ken
Click to expand...

It you want to take a look at them I will probably be in Victoria in the next day or two.
hh
 
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