Another obligatory New PM-833TV and PM-1340GT Ordered!

@mksj

I do not understand what you are trying to say: "not show continuity with an ohm meter because it uses two reverse diodes" ... If the diodes are back to back (reverse) and in series, then they can never conduct. If they never conduct there is no current through the LED. Without current the LED does not light up. The light is a function of the forward current through the LED. If you really mean to say the two diodes are wired in parallel, but in opposite directions then one will conduct on each 1/2 AC cycle. i.e. there is current for each 1/2 cycle.

We do not know what is being used to measure continuity. @Christianstark has not said. Many modern electronic multi-meters do not show conduction for some diodes in either direction. This is because they use such small currents/voltages for the test. I have a half dozen modern multi-meters and they all do the same thing. However, I also have an old fashioned multi-meter that I have had for ~50years. It will show the difference because it simply applies 1.5 volts in series with a resistor across the device and then the voltage is measured across the resistor to determine the current flowing in the device. In the case of an LED, where or not the old meter will measure the conduction of an LED depends very much on the LED forward voltage required. Some times they are 2, 2.5, 3 volts to light up (conduct much).

Sometimes older is better!

Dave
 
UPDATE - So my voltmeter has the capability to run a diode test in continuity mode. I tested again and indeed show a value on the LED block.

@B2 thanks for your question. It prompted me to do more digging. Just a side point, the black switch block is the same size as the red ones, which are switched. They are just 2 reds stacked on each other. I have confirmed that the blacks are indeed un-switched.

@mksj I was thinking I would run the E-Stop LED light whenever power is on to the machine, regardless of E-Stop position. This way, without drilling any new holes on my controls plate, lose the "Power" light that is original to the machine, and put my braking toggle there.. I already have one, but I do appreciate your offer to send one. This way I can use the existing hole, and leave the coolant switch in place, for if I decide to add flood coolant to my machine later.

General Question - Does Mist Coolant work well with a lathe, or is it really more aimed for milling and chip evacuation on a horizontal surface aided by compressed air?

B3729DA8-ECEE-47AA-AB20-99136775648D.jpeg

F3711B26-2F16-47A6-9FD3-B53E112DC9CD.jpeg
 
As I said, ohm meter will not work for continuity of these LED lamps, diode check may or may not work depending on the meter/LED bulb. Since I have installed a number of units with your E-Stop and other brands, the LED's are not switched unless you wire them in to do so. If you want the power light to stay on independent of the E-Stop just wire it to the other side of the 24VAC switch block (or the current wires going to the power light). The reason for freeing up the power light hole is because many people put the speed pot into that hole. On coolant, very few people use flood coolant on the lathe, unless turning exotic materials. Many people use a mist on mills and also to some degree lathes, the systems I build, are usually setup to use an air solenoid system. I use a water emulsion coolant, and find it works well for materials like aluminum. Most lathes use a separate coolant contactor to switch the 120/240VAC to a coolant pump, but on the 1340GT the high voltage (240VAC) goes directly to the front switch and then too the coolant pump, so limited safety and no overload relay. This is because of the limited lathe enclosure space.
 
I agree, it is wise to have a power indicator. Without it one may tend to walk off and leave the equipment turned on.... this is both unsafe and probably decreases the lift time of the equipment. Also, I read that the capacitors in the VFD have a limited life time. So just leaving the VFD on for long unused periods of time cannot be good. In my conversion, I used the digital panel meters for the power indicator purpose. However, I wanted to also know if my control latch was on or off so I put in the little gree LED indicator for that purpose. Of course I put in so many additions that I just started over and replaced the front panel. On the PM1440GT there is a good break point where to cut off panel for replacement.... so that you do not loose all of the PM labeling.

I have yet to try the mist coolant. So I am afraid I am not much help to you here. I have flooding on my mill and it is available on the lathe, but I have yet to use it on the lathe. Flooding is messy. I seem to get chips everywhere even without any coolant, and I just assume that the air flow from misting would make it worst. It is probably more important to make sure you have ventilation so as not to inhale the burnt/decomposed coolant vapors. On one of my longer milling jobs where I took off a lot of steel I used flooding and the vapors were bad. I was using a high performance coolant and I think these are designed to vaporize so as to remove as much heat as possible via the phase change from liquid to gas. I can only imagine that it would be worst if I was also using pressurized air to blow away the chips and to push the vapors everywhere. A vent fan helps but not a lot if the vapors have already been distributed about the whole room volume. Water based coolants are probably safer. But I never hear anyone talking about the issues around rust. I have settled in on a oil based coolant that is suppose to be safe for kitchen ware. Maybe it is not so bad to inhale a little. I also know that people who make wooden kitchen utensils (spoons etc) worry about what is in the oils that they put on the wood.

While I have a couple of compressors, they make a lot of noise while running. Just another reason I have not tried misting.

Dave
 
mksj said:
As I said, ohm meter will not work for continuity of these LED lamps, diode check may or may not work depending on the meter/LED bulb. Since I have installed a number of units with your E-Stop and other brands, the LED's are not switched unless you wire them in to do so. If you want the power light to stay on independent of the E-Stop just wire it to the other side of the 24VAC switch block (or the current wires going to the power light). The reason for freeing up the power light hole is because many people put the speed pot into that hole. On coolant, very few people use flood coolant on the lathe, unless turning exotic materials. Many people use a mist on mills and also to some degree lathes, the systems I build, are usually setup to use an air solenoid system. I use a water emulsion coolant, and find it works well for materials like aluminum. Most lathes use a separate coolant contactor to switch the 120/240VAC to a coolant pump, but on the 1340GT the high voltage (240VAC) goes directly to the front switch and then too the coolant pump, so limited safety and no overload relay. This is because of the limited lathe enclosure space.
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So the LED light can be run on the existing 24VAC? That’s good. I was thinking I was going to need to run it odd the P24 which I assume is 24VDC.
 
UPDATE - Spoke with PM. Lathe is apparently in rail yard in Cleveland, and awaiting delivery by truck to PM. They have a ETA date for this Friday the 24th but have not yet received a call from freight for the container delivery, which usually comes a day or 2 before delivery. Best case scenario, they receive the container early Friday, and are able to unload and begin doing QA before the weekend, but we shall see.

833 is now stateside, and should be a few weeks behind.
 
In-between shopping for stuff, wiring and finishing my workshop area, etc. I have been wondering about something.

Is there a general rule of thumb as to how tight I am supposed to make things while machining. I can be pretty heavy handed when dealing with bolts, etc. and I don't want to damage anything.

Milling machine vise?
Lathe Chuck?

Im sure the above is something I could get mildly aggressive with depending what I am clamping, but what about locking out x, y, or z axis on mill? Lathe tooling in the tool holder? Tool holder to QCTP? QCTP to cross slide/compound? R-8 collets in the mill? etc.

In all my reading and learning I have not come across anything that would guide me here. I don't want to break anything, by having a part fly, OR by stripping something out...Are there general torque specs till I get the "feel"

Thoughts?
 
I've been wondering the same thing. I found this the other day but I'm not sure if it applies to T-nuts on a milling table.
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As far locking the x, y, and z axis I wouldn't think it would take a lot of force. But I'm only guessing.

Tim
 
Christianstark said:
UPDATE - Spoke with PM. Lathe is apparently in rail yard in Cleveland, and awaiting delivery by truck to PM. They have a ETA date for this Friday the 24th…………………………………….
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Maybe, just maybe :cower:
 
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