Another Newbee, looking for advise

hdistock

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Hi guys, my names Bill. I just bought my first lathe, a Logan 820. I have few questions, maybe some of you will be willing to help & offer suggestions. The last owner states it's a 12 x24, how do I confirm it's size (on the rail it has 61214) also he had a jury- rigged tool post (or lack of) I was looking at one on e-bay Aloris AXA 6-12 (will this work). Also, what type or shape tool is needed for cutting threads, making smooth cuts etc. Where can I buy accessories for it?

Hope I didn't ask way too many questions. I appreciate any input.
Bill
 
Bill,

Welcome! Lots of knowledgeable, friendly folks here.

The model of your Logan should be stamped on the brass threading plate on the gear box. That should confirm that it is indeed an 820. If it is, it's a 10"x24". They are good lathes. The other number you referenced is the serial number. According to the Logan database, that puts the manufacture date as May or June of 1952.

The AXA size of tool holder is the correct size. The Aloris brand is the Cadillac of tool holders = $$$. Depending on your skill level and what you plan on doing with the lathe, there are more economical options.

As far as your other questions, they can all be answered with a little research. I suggest you spend some time reading here. Also you should join the Logan yahoo list. There is lots of good information there as well.

Hope this helps.

Steve
 
Hey Bill

Lathe.com is the place to go it is Logan's Site

http://lathe.com/models.htm

[TABLE="width: 827"]
[TR]
[TD]Model[/TD]
[TD]Q.C. Gear Box[/TD]
[TD]Center Distance[/TD]
[TD]Bed Length[/TD]
[TD]Spindle Nose[/TD]
[TD]Spindle Bore[/TD]
[TD]Tailstock/[/TD]
[TD]Drive Belt[/TD]
[TD]Stand[/TD]
[TD]Comments[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]10" Swing[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]820[/TD]
[TD]Yes[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]24[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]43[/TD]
[TD]1-1/2"-8 x #3 M.T.[/TD]
[TD]25/32[/TD]
[TD]Std Tailstock[/TD]
[TD]Flat Belt[/TD]
[TD]Legs[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]530[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]820-1[/TD]
[TD]Yes[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]24[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]43[/TD]
[TD]1-1/2"-8 x #3 M.T.[/TD]
[TD]25/32[/TD]
[TD]Lever Tailstock[/TD]
[TD]Flat Belt[/TD]
[TD]Legs[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]


According to this a Model 820 is 10x24

AXA will work

Ill leave the tool shape Q's to others with more Experience
 
Thanks Steve & Bartonius, for your reply, it is indeed a 820, on the plate. You said the Aloris is the Cad for posts, where are they for a better price, and do they have places that sell used (is that a good idea). Being new to this, there is so much info to take in lol.



TY Bill
 
Thanks Steve & Bartonius, for your reply, it is indeed a 820, on the plate. You said the Aloris is the Cad for posts, where are they for a better price, and do they have places that sell used (is that a good idea). Being new to this, there is so much info to take in lol.
TY Bill
Post some pictures, also showing the apron. This has QCGB right?
Everyone speaks highly of the phase II. I just got one, the wedge type.
Have not really used it yet. Just got done making the t nut for it.
i got it at ENCO.
 
Ok this is the newest addition to my tool inventory. I hope to be able to run it soon, post & belt on it's way. Any one want to chime in on shapes of tools needed for different jobs.

Ty Bill100_1970.JPG100_1971.JPG100_1972.JPG

100_1970.JPG 100_1971.JPG 100_1972.JPG
 
Ok this is the newest addition to my tool inventory. I hope to be able to run it soon, post & belt on it's way. Any one want to chime in on shapes of tools needed for different jobs.

Ty Bill

Nice, that has the better apron. I just have the plain apron.
What kind of belt do you have coming, l just put a automotive serpentine belt on mine. pulled the spindle.
Did you order a phase II?
 
Hello Bill and welcome to the forum.
I see that you already have a couple of responses on the lathe size and tool post questions.

Let me start some dialog on cutting tools. This is a really big field. I am sure some of the other members will jump in to add some more or make corrections if they think I am steering you wrong.

I hope I am not being too rudimentary here - I am trying to base the response on what I am reading into your question.

As I see it, cutting tools (these days) come in 3 flavors:
  1. Traditional high speed steel (HSS)
  2. Brazed carbide cutters
  3. Index-able carbide cutters (with replaceable inserts)

HSS cutters
can be had "pre-ground" or you can buy blanks and grind them yourself. HSS tooling can be a little more messing around than the carbide route, but I think that all the professionals will quickly point out that there are things you can do with HSS that is difficult to get with carbide. Not only can the HSS get you complex cutting surfaces, but it can also give surface finish improvements over carbides. Let me stop there with HSS and let others add to this.

Brazed Carbide Cutters
were new on the market when I was first exposed to machining. (Tungsten carbide is usually just called "carbide" amongst machining circles). This is a small piece of carbide brazed to the end of a steel tool shank. To the tool holder, it looks like a piece of HSS. Carbide holds an edge much longer than HSS. Carbide can usually be run at much higher surface speeds than HSS. The hardness that makes carbide hold an edge also makes it subject to fracturing. It is possible to break the corner off a brand new brazed carbide cutter just by bumping it into a steel, non turning part such as a chuck or tool post. The brazed version can be re-ground (with the proper grinding wheel) until there is almost no carbide left on the shaft. The brazed cutter can also be ground to get profiling shapes not available "out of the box." Carbides come in several variations of hardness / toughness depending on the application. For example, turning with an uninterrupted cut usually requires a tough rather than a hard carbide. I'll leave it to others to go into more details here.

Index-able Carbide Cutters have a replaceable carbide "insert" in place of the brazed-on version. Furthermore, the carbide can be "indexed" one or more times to expose a new cutting edge as one becomes worn or damaged. The carbide insert is either screwed or clamped into position. The "holder" is reused indefinitely as inserts are replaced. Index-able cutters come in many shapes and sizes with many types of chip breakers for different applications. Some can be indexed as many as eight times before they are replaced. Each carbide shape requires a different holder. Holders for the same shape are also furnished in RH, LH and several other versions.

You mentioned thread cutting. This can be done with any of the above three types of cutters. All can be purchased with the necessary angles already ground into the tool. Or, with HSS, you can take a blank and grind your own (I have never been good at this - I like to buy preground thread cutters). The most common USA threads use a 60 degree angle cutter. But, there are other threads that use different geometries.

I recommend getting a hold of "Machinerys Handbook." It goes into great depth on cutting tools, thread geometries and a thousand other topics important to machining. You can find used copies on EBay. Amazon sells new copies. It seems that the used versions are not that much cheaper than a new one. There is enough reading in there to put you to sleep for many nights.

Terry S.
 
I was going to do the serp belt thing also, but went with the Logan belt, only for the fact when I talked with the Logan gent,(I told him my plans with the serp). he said the new belts have a grip thing going on, so they grip the the pulleys better. They are not leather anymore.

Bill

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you Terry, my father was a machinist when I was younger, but I went with being an auto & truck mechanic (more fun and money at the time) then his field. I have a lots of his old tools, I know of the brazed ones but the shaft is too small for my post (to be), I was hoping for a photo of the different kind, whether they are pointed, blunt etc.
This really is a good site with very helpfull people. I am very thankful.
Bill
 
I have a question about these carbide tools I got off E bay a while back. I have not used them.
Are these not all tools that must be used feeding from left to right? (Towards the tail-stock) or if facing, from the outside in?
I thought normally it was best to feed in towards the headstock?
Maybe I did not pay enough attention when I brought them.
Thanks,
Tony


Hello Bill and welcome to the forum.
I see that you already have a couple of responses on the lathe size and tool post questions.

Let me start some dialog on cutting tools. This is a really big field. I am sure some of the other members will jump in to add some more or make corrections if they think I am steering you wrong.

I hope I am not being too rudimentary here - I am trying to base the response on what I am reading into your question.

As I see it, cutting tools (these days) come in 3 flavors:
  1. Traditional high speed steel (HSS)
  2. Brazed carbide cutters
  3. Index-able carbide cutters (with replaceable inserts)

HSS cutters
can be had "pre-ground" or you can buy blanks and grind them yourself. HSS tooling can be a little more messing around than the carbide route, but I think that all the professionals will quickly point out that there are things you can do with HSS that is difficult to get with carbide. Not only can the HSS get you complex cutting surfaces, but it can also give surface finish improvements over carbides. Let me stop there with HSS and let others add to this.

Brazed Carbide Cutters
were new on the market when I was first exposed to machining. (Tungsten carbide is usually just called "carbide" amongst machining circles). This is a small piece of carbide brazed to the end of a steel tool shank. To the tool holder, it looks like a piece of HSS. Carbide holds an edge much longer than HSS. Carbide can usually be run at much higher surface speeds than HSS. The hardness that makes carbide hold an edge also makes it subject to fracturing. It is possible to break the corner off a brand new brazed carbide cutter just by bumping it into a steel, non turning part such as a chuck or tool post. The brazed version can be re-ground (with the proper grinding wheel) until there is almost no carbide left on the shaft. The brazed cutter can also be ground to get profiling shapes not available "out of the box." Carbides come in several variations of hardness / toughness depending on the application. For example, turning with an uninterrupted cut usually requires a tough rather than a hard carbide. I'll leave it to others to go into more details here.

Index-able Carbide Cutters have a replaceable carbide "insert" in place of the brazed-on version. Furthermore, the carbide can be "indexed" one or more times to expose a new cutting edge as one becomes worn or damaged. The carbide insert is either screwed or clamped into position. The "holder" is reused indefinitely as inserts are replaced. Index-able cutters come in many shapes and sizes with many types of chip breakers for different applications. Some can be indexed as many as eight times before they are replaced. Each carbide shape requires a different holder. Holders for the same shape are also furnished in RH, LH and several other versions.

You mentioned thread cutting. This can be done with any of the above three types of cutters. All can be purchased with the necessary angles already ground into the tool. Or, with HSS, you can take a blank and grind your own (I have never been good at this - I like to buy preground thread cutters). The most common USA threads use a 60 degree angle cutter. But, there are other threads that use different geometries.

I recommend getting a hold of "Machinerys Handbook." It goes into great depth on cutting tools, thread geometries and a thousand other topics important to machining. You can find used copies on EBay. Amazon sells new copies. It seems that the used versions are not that much cheaper than a new one. There is enough reading in there to put you to sleep for many nights.

Terry S.

DSCF0746 Save.JPG DSCF0744 Save.JPG
 
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