Another Furnas switch question

[Nooj]

I have a single phase, 1/2hp motor that had 6 leads coming from it when I got it. Only 4 we’re connected to the Furnas A-14 switch (and I never saw it run, so I have no idea if they were correct).
The motor data plate does not indicate that there should be 6 wires… the colors aren’t “factory”- the motor has had wires changed and spliced in.
Here’s what I have:


I have black and white wires marked t1 and t2, they read 1.5 ohms across them. (We’ll call them t1 and t2).
I have red and blue wires that read 1.5 ohms between them. (We’ll call them A and B).
And I have black and red wires that read open- but have a capacitance value.

T1 black reads 1.5 ohms to B blue, and .2 ohms to A red.
T2 white reads 1.5 ohms to A red, and .2 ohms to B blue.

The red and black capacitance wires don’t ohm out to any other wires.

What the crap do I have going on here??
It seems like I have two wires for start winding, two wires for run winding (but each set ohms the same and ohms together…), and two wires for start capacitor. But I’m not sure…

Three phase stuff is so much easier.

 

[Bi11Hudson]

Until you hit a 3 phase motor with dual speed or a "start wye, run delta", either of which will drive you to drink. I'll be back later with some usable details. For now, just be relieved that you only have a single phase to deal with.

.

 

[twhite]

Not sure if these old wiring diagrams from South Bend will be of any help.

Cutting oil is my blood.

 

[twhite]

3 more

Cutting oil is my blood.

 

[markba633csi]

Need more info to proceed then I can post a sketch for you
Show us both the inside of the drum switch and the motor terminal board (close up views)
-Mark

 

[Nooj]

I appreciate all the drawings! My switch is a bit different so that’s throwing me off.

I’ll try to get a decent picture if I can. The motor is installed, so I may have to pull it to get a good view…

 

[Nooj]

Ok- here are some pics
Inside the end of the motor cover:

My switch:




Based on the motor label, I have a red wire on A, blue on B (the two outer most terminals), and black on T1, and white on T4 (the two inner terminals, where it says “line”).
The other black/red pair (the black has the butt splice) go straight into the motor, over to the capacitor I believe.

 

[Nooj]

So- tell me if I have this straight:
A & B (red/blue from motor) to 2 &4 on the switch.
T1 & T4 (black/white from motor) to A & B on the switch.
Hot & neutral from the power cord on 1 & 3?

I need the capacitor in series with the start winding though, right?

So… instead, should it be:



In this Drawing I’ve just put the cap in series with the start winding.
Perhaps I should’ve put the incoming power on A & B, and t1 & t4 on 1 & 3? Either way, it’s the same electrically, based on the switch makeup

 

[Nooj]

Ok, so… I wired it exactly as my drawing. And tripped the breaker as soon as I turned it on…

 

[markba633csi]

No surprise LOL give me a bit to study it and I'll put something together
Do you have a continuity checker or multimeter handy? We might need it
Since you haven't seen it run, I think the first thing to do would be to verify the motor starts and runs by itself without the
reversing switch
I can't see clearly but are the links connected as per the low volt case?
We need to figure out why the splice on the black wire and what's up with the blue wire
Ultimately you may need to open up the motor to figure out what is what- probably a good time to dis-mount the motor
and put it up on the bench to work on it