- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
Pat,
Typical bean counters. Always fouling their own nest.
56type,
OK. The drill chuck is threaded. Hold it in your spindle chuck roughly centered. Wrap the chuck sleeve in several layers of paper to protect its finish. As the direction that you need to turn the arbor to remove it is also the direction that will loosen your spindle chuck, block up under the lower two spindle chuck jaws with wood blocks and take the load on the front way. If the 1MT part of the arbor is tanged, you can turn it with an adjustable (AKA Crescent) wrench. If you are lucky, the 1MT part will break loose first. If it does, then use a pipe wrench on the straight part. Otherwise, just use a pipe wrench on the straight part . If the 1MT part isn't tanged, I don't know how you'll get the arbor apart. You could try putting a 2MT to 1MT sleeve in the spindle and and the 1MT arbor in the sleeve and using a pipe wrench on the straight part.
Typical bean counters. Always fouling their own nest.
56type,
OK. The drill chuck is threaded. Hold it in your spindle chuck roughly centered. Wrap the chuck sleeve in several layers of paper to protect its finish. As the direction that you need to turn the arbor to remove it is also the direction that will loosen your spindle chuck, block up under the lower two spindle chuck jaws with wood blocks and take the load on the front way. If the 1MT part of the arbor is tanged, you can turn it with an adjustable (AKA Crescent) wrench. If you are lucky, the 1MT part will break loose first. If it does, then use a pipe wrench on the straight part. Otherwise, just use a pipe wrench on the straight part . If the 1MT part isn't tanged, I don't know how you'll get the arbor apart. You could try putting a 2MT to 1MT sleeve in the spindle and and the 1MT arbor in the sleeve and using a pipe wrench on the straight part.