Air Compressor In Line Ac Condenser = Cool Dry Air?

kd4gij said:
If you where to test the air comming out of that guys system and one without the condenser You would only see a small differince.
Click to expand...

This would be a very easy comparison test to run, simply bypass the condenser, run for specific time and pressure, measure moisture collected, and hook the condenser back up. I know very little about compressors but the vid showing the compressed air temp dropping by over 100 degrees seems like it would make more than a minor difference in the moisture delivered to the main tank. When I get my system with a condenser running(don't hold your breath, it'll be a while!) I'll try to test it.

thanks to all for the input, Brian

pic of the compressor I got mounted on a temporary mobile base till I find a permanent location for it. $100 on CL but needs new head and valve gasket(on order, full gasket kit on ebay$16).
IMG_753320-20Version202_zpsy18krig1.jpg
 
Last edited:
The guy built what is referred to as an aftercooler. It makes a huge difference in the amount of water in the air. You need to have a blow down or a float trap to periodically dump the water out of the tank so it doesn't build up and re-enter the air flow. With the right sized cooler you can get the air dewpoint down to within 10 or 15 deg. F of the ambient air temp. Add a refrigerated dryer and a desiccant dryer and you can get close to - 40 F dewpoint. Pretty dry! The one thing I would caution is that you put a pressure relief on the compressor side of the cooler. That way, if for any reason the cooler gets blocked, the relief will lift and keep you from damaging something (or someone). Also need to make sure the cooler lines are large enough for the max flow of the compressor so you don't reduce the compressor output.
 
I picked up an aftercooler for my 5hp 60 gallon system off Zoro. I think it's a 10-15hp rated one. I plumbed it in with hydraulic hose between the head & tank & zip tied the cooler to the fan guard. The intake to the aftercooler is hot, to hot to touch if I remember, the middle is barely warm & the outlet is room temperature. I end up dumping a lot more water into the tank now & don't get any moisture in my lines. My descant filter after the compressor, aftercooler & regulator is somewhat useless now, but I still leave it inline as an extra measure. A lot more air comes out when the unloader kicks in, draining out the intercooler & extra plumbing, but not really a big deal.

Hot air can hold more moisture than cold air.
The more you compress air, the less moisture it will hold.

So if you cool it down, you dump a lot of moisture out. Then run it through a regulator & decrease the pressure a bit, the air is below the dew point & you won't get any moisture coming out.

I was looking for cheap/free air conditioner parts as an aftercooler, but ended up getting a purpose built one from Zoro as I wasn't having a lot of luck. A/C gear is rated to several hundred lbs & if you get one with big enough plumbing should work just fine.

I'd post pictures, but don't have enough posts to do links I guess.
 
Zoro G3188306 Air Cooled Aftercooler,Max HP 15,60 CFM $188.66

As I said, it's not really any different than AC gear. I was looking at an oil or transmission cooler, but couldn't find one that was rated over 150-200lbs. Well I found a couple race ones, but they were more than the aftercooler.
 
I have a refrigerated air dryer now, but before I had it, I would run a coiled air hose through plastic Rubbermaid a tub filled with ice water, then directly through two small in-line water traps. Granted it was a temporary set-up, but it made a big difference. Plasma cutters and powder coat guns do not like moisture. I found the refrigerated air dryer on Craigslist later for $250.

GG
 
calstar said:
here's another vid:

Click to expand...


This may be of value to some. No matter what you use to cool air and eliminate moisture, don't install a water pump. Lines go up as high as you have room before branching out. If the line goes immediately to the floor/ground, any moisture is then forced through the lines.
Check out this website: http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/air-compressor-piping.htm
Clicking on the small pictures enlarges them.

Paul
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top