Adhesive for veneer

the only "white" glue that lowes has is elmers school glue. if this will not work what brand should i buy on the internet???
I use regular Elmers, I don't know if the school stuff works or not. I buy gallons of it at Home Depot. I think Titebond also makes a white glue.
 
The old smelly solvent based contact cement always did a great job. The new "environmental" contact adhesive does hold but not as well.

I would use PVA glue like Titebond. If it is too thick, thin it a little with water. Apply it to both contact surfaces like contact cement. I have never tried white PVA glue like Ellmers. I would worry about it softening from water or humidity which Titebond III won't do.
It’s been so long since I’ve done any veneer work I didn’t even realize the formula for contact cement had changed. I remember having to.use it in a “well ventilated area” to avoid a massive buzz followed by a hangover style headache. It seems like anything with the “environmentally friendly” label doesn’t work nearly as well as the the original
 
The old smelly solvent based contact cement always did a great job. The new "environmental" contact adhesive does hold but not as well.

I would use PVA glue like Titebond. If it is too thick, thin it a little with water. Apply it to both contact surfaces like contact cement. I have never tried white PVA glue like Ellmers. I would worry about it softening from water or humidity which Titebond III won't do.
One of the perks of rubber cement (or any pressure sensitive adhesive) is that the solvent doesn't cause the wood to swell. Most of the solvent flashes off before you stick the parts together.

Obviously, there's more than one way to skin a cat.
 
the only "white" glue that lowes has is elmers school glue. if this will not work what brand should i buy on the internet???
It will be fine, I just used the school glue to repair the cover on my wife’s grade school dictionary. Same process; coat, dry and then iron to set.

It’s not the proper acid free book binding glue but, we’ll be long gone before it matters!
 
I second the contact cement recommendation: there's two good features, firstly it's not a water-based glue
you want, water expands the veneer and it can crack on drying. Second, it's rubbery, allows local expansion/contraction
to be slightly different between the soft veneer and the underlying rigid or crossgrain substrate.

It's also very quick.

The drawbacks: you can't wash out paint rollers after using them to apply the adhesive, and it's hard to use
brushes; sometimes a card-type glue spreader or rubber roller might work for application.

Final step is the press-in-place, using a slip-out sheet (of masking paper, when I do it) so the
positioning can happen before actually pulling the sheet out and making a very final contact between
the two prepped surfaces.
 
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