Adequate Hobbyist Drill Press?

Okay, you brought it up so, I guess I'm going to bite. ;)

Obviously there's the entanglement risk of things like workman's gloves or riggers' gloves or gardening gloves or the like. I expect most sensible people would never argue with the 'no gloves' thing there.

However, skin-tight, very thin nitrile or latex gloves, the kinds of gloves that will tear as easily or in some cases even more easily than skin, seem to me, not to have the characteristics that lead to the risk.

Is there a good explanation why, in a hobbyist shop, where it's just the individual working and there isn't the requirement for a blanket H&S company policy to protect it from litigation (which is the reason H&S policies are implemented at companies ;) ) the above paragraph isn't true.

It won't be news to any of us here that it's vital to have a good, specific, credible and easily defended rationale for any safety prescriptions/proscriptions.

If individual bits of safety advice that have quite a broad interpretation (like the somewhat absolute "no gloves" prohibition) don't have good logical reasoning that covers their rather broad application, then people may lose patience with safety advice generally.

By the way, although the above paragraph is true, my main reason for asking is that I do prefer to wear the very thin nitrile gloves and I'd like to know if there's a good, logical reason I should stop wearing them.
I use the 9Mil Nitrile glove because I do not like the oil, solvents and other chemicals on my hands. As a general rule these tear if you look at them wrong and you lose little if any since of touch with them.
 
Yes if it shows a low amount of run out let us know.
If your local HF is like ours, they are already sold out.

If policy is the same at all stores the floor display model should still be there to check.

I did some more product spec comparisons and for $400 the HF's next model up has about double the HP rating, a larger square table, including T slots.
It also has a lower lowest speed under 200 RPM and larger diameter main column plus IIANM a taller/ larger spindle case, which may add rigidity and better bearing support to the spindle.
I am partial to the Porter Cable Floor model, it has stood up well and has very little run out (less than .001") using a precision chuck or ER32 collets.


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Yeah, the two nearby HFs are out - stores don’t list that unit in their inventory system, so not worth a long drive to check other HFs.

I settled for a 12in Wen Benchtop Drill Press $215 delivered from Amazon - it’ll go on a garage workbench rather than a floor stand unit in my basement workshop area.

If I need to, I can take a workpiece to our nearby Makerspace, where we have a large commercial drill press unit.


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Run out on a 1/2" precision rod (+/- 0.002/ft) was a bit high on this benchtop drill press 3in from the chuck at +/- 0.005 (the unit has a 3-1/2" plunge maximum). The manual describes a process to "adjust the angular play of the spindle" - that sounds like it's worth a try.
 
Run out on a 1/2" precision rod (+/- 0.002/ft) was a bit high on this benchtop drill press 3in from the chuck at +/- 0.005 (the unit has a 3-1/2" plunge maximum). The manual describes a process to "adjust the angular play of the spindle" - that sounds like it's worth a try.
It could just be the chuck/arbor combination. That's been my experience, anyway. They provide savings by cutting a corner there rather than the spindle or bearings. Check again from the bore, you will probably see a better result.
 
It could just be the chuck/arbor combination. That's been my experience, anyway. They provide savings by cutting a corner there rather than the spindle or bearings. Check again from the bore, you will probably see a better result.
All cheap chucks look about the same! The one that Wen supplies has no run-out specifications https://wenproducts.com/products/we...or-taper?_pos=5&_psq=Drill+chuck&_ss=e&_v=1.0

LMS sells a $16 and $25 chuck with 0.008 and 0.004 run-out, respectively. I have the $25/0.004 one on my lathe.

The next level up in accuracy appears to be 0,002, with prices ranging widely. Most of the ones I seen in the $50-$80 range are keyless.
 
I didn't read all the replies, but very quickly I'll recommend getting some sort of floor-standing drill press. This provides the z-axis clearance for drilling that is one of the biggest shortcomings of having a small mill. It's not quite the same, but it'll be a huge help.

I also like Rohm keyless chucks for economical quality. They make a couple lines, but the less expensive line are the very best I've seen for the price.

GsT
 
All cheap chucks look about the same! The one that Wen supplies has no run-out specifications https://wenproducts.com/products/we...or-taper?_pos=5&_psq=Drill+chuck&_ss=e&_v=1.0

LMS sells a $16 and $25 chuck with 0.008 and 0.004 run-out, respectively. I have the $25/0.004 one on my lathe.

The next level up in accuracy appears to be 0,002, with prices ranging widely. Most of the ones I seen in the $50-$80 range are keyless.

You can always buy a used US or German made chuck. I agree with @GeneT45 that Rohm has a great value line, and they hold up well beyond their expected lifespan. Used Jacobs chucks are a dime a dozen, and are surely better than any sub-$100 Chinese chuck. I'm definitely not advocating for you to put a diamond ring on an hourly escort here, just saying you have options for better quality without going straight for shiny, new, and Chinese. For drill press use, the "premium" or "precision" China keyless chucks are pretty good, but at that price you are mighty close to used Albrechts- and the difference is night and day.
 
While I’m on the topic, I picked up the only Drill Press Vise they had in stock at HF (when I found they didn’t have the floor-stand drill press in my first post above) and find the flats end well before the stationary vise surface. So, I can’t support any workpiece with parallels (without stacking the across the gap). It’s a $20 hunk of scrap, but somewhat functional.

A quick look at Amazon shows other low profile drill press vises with a gap before the stationary jaw. What’s that about? I guess one can support a workpiece with a slab of wood cut to just under dimension, but flatness isn’t too good…

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While I’m on the topic, I picked up the only Drill Press Vise they had in stock at HF (when I found they didn’t have the floor-stand drill press in my first post above) and find the flats end well before the stationary vise surface. So, I can’t support any workpiece with parallels (without stacking the across the gap). It’s a $20 hunk of scrap, but somewhat functional.

A quick look at Amazon shows other low profile drill press vises with a gap before the stationary jaw. What’s that about? I guess one can support a workpiece with a slab of wood cut to just under dimension, but flatness isn’t too good…

View attachment 468566
You might consider a float lock vise for it...
 
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