My brain is so frazzled right now getting called in to work a couple of times, and doing this, I started with .012 TIR, changed dowel pins, and got -.002, +.001 TIR on the sweep not a solid reading, but I think I'm good for a recommended .005 tolerance.
Shortcuts don't work, I added all of the bellhousing bolts after I was happy with the reading. Now the bell is not within specs, so started over, and now have .004 (.005 max)run out on the concentric alignment. Now I have to fix my clutch package the new disc is .382 vs the old .305 that changes the dynamics of the clutch settings. The cover height, and finger heights are all off now. It's a big deal for an adjustable clutch, it was set up for a heavy car, and a BBC. Now it will be in a light car, and a SBC, so adjustments are in order.
These clutches have a sintered iron disc, adjustable base(spring pressure), and adjustable counter weight pressure(RPM sensitive) for tuning purposes.
Well, the after market block is fashioned after the 350 block, the 327(that could be ordered) has different block mounting pads. I had to use the 327 solid mounts, and used solid shims to get the right height to get the motor mount bolts in, that was a pain. In, and out several times, but it's in. The red "glow" is from the red awning the car is under.
Well after several days of fitting the 1 7/8" headers they are in position to bolt in. there were several challenges, motor mount height being one, front clip to header interference another on the driver side. Getting all of the header bolts in, and spark plus may be an issue too. The passenger side with the starter was very time consuming, had to make phone calls to get guidance from the vendors, there is no wiggle room, everything must be per instructions, no substitutions. Even with that there are challenges with fitment. The headers are private label for Church Boys Racing, the engineering for production must have been insane. To make it all fit, and to try to get the averages for production must have been a nightmare. I used the recommended parts, but still had difficulties with fitment, so some machining, and fitting was involved. The right starter did not fit, so one tube needed to be "adjusted" on the hyd press, and the starter mounting block had some adjustments made as well. The corner of the block got radiused, and the mounting bolt had to be counter bored. Used an end mill for that, and I'm ****** that I chipped a tooth when it fell out of the collet, and hit the vice my fault. Could have used a counter bore for this, IF I had one, but the 3/4" end mill is all I had. First gen Nova's are a pain. LOL
I feel for you, but we all know that "bolt on speed part" is a serious misnomer. Almost without exception, the use of a torch, hammer, grinder, or other persuader of some sort comes into play. Mike
Some of mine from the past, so you don't feel alone.
Aukai, have actually been enjoying the last week on your beautiful island. Staying in Princeville, heading over to the big island Sunday to visit some friends for a week or so, then back to the grind. Cheers, Mike
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